Thibaud Clerget is continuing to produce impressive and evermore refined wines. The 2023s are lovely but are battling with the sumptuous 2022s.
He has expanded his estate with a big share of the former Domaine Régis Rossignol-Changarnier Estate that he divided with Arnaud Baillot. This expansion takes the Clerget holdings to 10.5 hectares.
I have followed Thibaud Clerget since his start with the 2015 vintage, and have seen a gradual and continual improvement in the quality and precision of his wines.
Improvements leading to even higher quality
While the grapes in hot years are often riper, the winemaking is not necessarily easier. Maintaining lightness and coolness during harvest and vinification requires experience.
I was therefore initially surprised with the fine results from Thibaud Clerget in his first vintage, 2015. Yes, some of the wines were a bit on the hot side, but in general, their balance was beautifully preserved.
Tasting the 2016s and 2017s revealed real improvements compared with the ’15s. These wines showed the potential of this fine estate, and also Thibaud’s talent.
Then came the 2018s, and despite the fact that it was hotter than in 2015, his ’18 wines were vivid and fresh, showing fine details and energy. What a result!
The 2019s had even more to offer: an inherent energy and depth, and complexity that ran through the wines as a source of hedonistic pleasure. Thibaud nourished this quality and fully expressed it in his ’19s.
The 2020s, however, were a real surprise – as at many other estates – with their coolness and classical stance. That vintage was the perfect opportunity for Thibaud to express his terroirs.
Regardless of the challenges in 2021, Thibaud conquered the obstacles and made some very elegant wines. Clearly, yields and overall quantity suffered, but quality is king, and there are some very good wines here from 2021.
The 2022s are surprisingly lively and enjoyable, although the acidity is moderate and the growing season started out hot. Rain before the harvest must have had a miraculous effect on the grapes, as the wines display a unique freshness and energy, considering the hot summer and the resulting low acidity.
and now the 2023s … they are lighter than the 22s but yields were kept low on average ,,, so quite a nice set.
The 2023s, tasted October 23rd 2024
Domaine Y. Clerget Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a lovely little wine. 100% destemmed with a lovely concentration and depth for this level. 5 barrels made … a delightful vin d’soif.
(Drink from 2024) – Good+ (87p) –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 2023
The Volnay village is one of the stars of the vintage. Very lively with a lovely intensity and vividness … so delightful and lively … love the energy and the verve. One of the best village Volnays … vin d’emotion bien sure.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (89p) –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Bruillard 2023
Negociant, 30% Whole Cluster, 33% new oak.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – 89p) –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle 2023
The Carelle sous la Chapelle is usually one of my favourites at Clerget. It shows lively and quite delicate in 2023 with an energetic fruit. The 2022 is more intense but I somehow like the lightness in the 2023 … very vivid.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ (91p) –
Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Mitan 2023
The Volnay Mitan is always well-placed In the lineup … however never a top scorer regarding intensity and hedonistic qualities. Its however drinking beautifully – but in the real world of wine – some clones have all the qualities … others are more average. This is why collectors go for the cuvees each year.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ (91p) –
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