It’s often fascinating to see the difference between the Burgundy villages and appellations .. they all have their own character and ambience.
Meursault is a very interesting place with a lovely ambience in the city center, yet I never seem to explore the town – perhaps I should do just that next time.
The Meursault hype ..
The producer mix of the appellation always strikes me as odd, as the balance between known and hyped is slightly bizarre. We have Coche-Dury, Lafon and Roulot as the hyped producers, with Arnaud Enté as the fourth wheel in this group.
There is nothing wrong about being hyped, but it sometimes seems strange that other producers that produce very high quality wines year after year – aren’t receiving the same attention and demand as the three top producers.
I do love and admire the wines from both Coche-Dury and Roulot, but somehow I struggle to see that producers like Antoine Jobard, Arnaud Tessier – just to mention two – are not mentioned in connection with the four mentioned above. Arnaud Enté do make fine Meursaults, but somehow lack a top terroirs – with the lovely Goutte d’Or being the top wine in Meursault. And furthermore I do think that several producers match and surpass Lafon on a vineyard like Meursault Charmes – just take Tessier and the Meursault Charmes 1913 from Mikulski.
All I’m asking for is some perspective and a wider focus that can encompass the other great producers of the Meursault appellation.
To widen the perspective I have for a long time been eager to visit Domaine Arnaud Tessier, as I really enjoy the wines – and think Tessier do challenge and belong in the group of top producers mentioned above.
Visit at Domaine Tessier
Tasting in Burgundy is a privilege as one sometimes have the opportunity to meet people with a special talent or gift if you like.
I have followed the wines of Arnaud Tessier since the 2008 vintage, and have seen him improve from a very fine level in 2008 to a top level performance in the 2014 vintage.
A good friend introduced the wines more than five years ago, and I was impressed from the beginning, and taken by the focus and the freshness and the tremendous balance of the wines. Since the first vintages the detail and focus has improved as has the integration of the oak – and the result is a quite staggeringly high quality.
Arnaud Tessier is clearly a man of the vineyards – or should we say his vines – he is known for his very dedicated work in the vineyards – and this is most likely the foundation for the unique quality found at this estate – and most likely the vibrant freshness of his 2015s.
Tessier is a man of strong views and dedication .. and the visit gave me the same feeling as when I visited Domaine Nicolas Faure in June 2016 … this is the real deal, no marketing bullshit, no fancy stuff in the cellar .. this is a man and his vineyards.
Speaking of vineyards Arnaud Tessier are blessed with plots in the best parts of both Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus and Meursault Genevrieres-Dessus and some fine holdings of Meursault Les Poruzots and Meursault Les Casse Têtes. These are terroir wines of the highest quality.
I do admire the puristic approach and the independent nature of Arnaud Tessier, and find it liberating that it’s still possible to find this type of producers in the commercial and international wine world.
Domaine Arnaud Tessier the wines
The wines of Domaine Tessier is made with a strong dedication and this is reflected in the quality of the wines and in a sense also in the style.
The wines have a interesting dual personality, one is a hedonistic side that makes the wines appealing even for non connoisseurs, the other a more intellectual side that offer details and complexity for the taster who takes the time and effort to explore the wine.
I do find this combination interesting, as the hedonistic side is achieved without sacrificing the classic styled Meursault – it’s still very focused and precise wines.
The style is both refined and quite classic in my view and the wines offer fine weight and impressive mineral driven intensity. They do strike a perfect balance between forward fruit and mineral focus and backbone even in their youth and in hot years like 2015.
In short .. I adore these wines .. they are among my preferred whites from Burgundy these days.
Tasting the 2015s from Domaine Tessier
The 2015s from Tessier are stunningly great for the vintage – as Arnaud has managed to make cool and energetic Meursaults in this hot and ripe year.
These wines has a so far unrivaled balance and freshness in the 2015 vintage – and in the best possible way, they do not taste like 2015s – they are that fresh and balanced. They do however have the mid-palate charm of the vintage – very delightful wines indeed.
To the notes …
The Bourgogne Blanc “Champ Perrier” – is from a vineyard located in Puligny-Montrachet near Meursault. This is a real treat – it’s cool, fresh and energetic with a lovely mid-palate weight for this level – a wine that can match many village wines – and it’s preferred to quite many white 1er crus tasted in the 2015 vintage, as it has a quite unique freshness and purity for the vintage. The bouquet offer pure white fruit dominated aromas with a filigree minerality as a focusing element. On the palete cool fruit, generous yet focused – with a tremendous length and complexity for this level – a Very Good indeed wine.
The Tessier Meursault Les Casse Têtes 2015 is a top end Meursault village in the classic Tessier style – i.e. none of the exotic 2015 over-ripeness one find in so many whites from this vintage. This is a fresh and vibrant Meursault offering a lovely bouquet of white fruits and flowers brought forward by a intense Minerality from the excellent terroir located above Les Gouttes d’Or. On the palate rich yet cool fruit, lovely intensity created by the fine fruit and the long, saline and powerful mineral driven finish. As with all Tessier wines it’s so balanced and detailed .. a Fine effort and one of my favorite whites from this vintage.
The Meursault Poruzot-Dessus 2015 is the only wine in the line-up that has a clear reference to 2015 vintage, as this wine offer some more exotic fruits and more ripe density than the other wines. It is nevertheless a balanced and refined effort compared with many other wines made in this vintage. The nose offer a range of white and yellow orchard fruits – more exotic elements like peach and pineapple have a stronger presence – but are focuced well by the expressive minerality of the Poruzot terroir. On the palate rich and generous yet well balanced by a fine acidity and a fine mineral backbone. A rich and ripe Poruzot by Tessier standards – a Fine wine indeed.
Moving to the top two – the Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus made from plots located in the very best parts of Charmes-Dessus – just below Meursault Perrieres-Dessous. This is a magnificent 2015 in the making – so cool, refined and balanced. The bouquet offer intense cool predominantly white fruits with some youthful exotic elements of white peach – all focused and brought forward by a powerful citrus infused minerality. On the palate intense and rich with a charming generosity – but kept in focus by the vibrant minerality and the finely tuned acidity and citrus notes in the finish. In a sense it defies logic that it’s possible to produce such a refined and cool Meursault Charmes in this vintage – a gorgeous wine and a Very Fine effort – chapeau Arnaud!
The Meursault Genevrieres-Dessus 2015 is another beauty offering a cool yet intense interpretation of the 2015 vintage. The bouquet offer vibrant fresh fruit, slightly more balanced towards the yellow notes with a hint of exotic orchard fruits – whiff of pineapple and white peach – all brought forward by the vibrant and expressive Genevrieres minerality. On the palate vibrant and citrus infused fruit – it’s long and vibrant driven by a beautiful outgoing minerality and a fine acidity for the vintage. This is a Very Fine wine by all standards – and quite exceptional for the vintage … this and the Meursault Charmes-Dessus are quite evenly matched in my book .. and are among the best whites I have tasted so far in the 2015 vintage.
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Domaine Tessier, Bourgogne Blanc “Champ-Perrier” 2014 May 10, 2017
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Charmes-Dessus 2010 December 23, 2016
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Genevrieres 2013 October 8, 2016
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Genevrieres 2011 August 30, 2016
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Charmes-Dessus 2010 June 2, 2016
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Genevrieres 2011 December 28, 2015
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Genevrieres 2011 June 7, 2015
- Domaine Tessier, Meursault Charmes-Dessus 2010 March 7, 2015
- Domaine Arnaud Tessier, Meursault Charmes Dessus 2010 April 15, 2013
- Arnaud Tessier, Meursault Charmes-Dessus 2008 October 24, 2012
- Domaine Arnaud Tessier, Le Poruzot Dessus 2008 August 20, 2012
- Domaine Arnaud Tessier, Meursault Genevrieres 2009 June 23, 2012
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