What a rollercoaster was 2022, the year that gave a generous abundant crop, and also the year where vignerons had to decide how to allocate the scarce 2021s.
The demand for Burgundy wine has never been higher, hence all attractive wines can more or less be sold (or should I say allocated) within minutes if desired. In reality, for many producers, there is no selling involved, only distribution according to vignerons’ needs and wants.
The hyped newbies
Last year, new boutique producers were hyped with grey-market prices hitting, if not the roof, then at least the ceiling. A village wine from an until-recently-unknown vineyard and producer at 400 euros was unheard of before. Now they seem to jump into the market as buyers on Asian web shops scramble for them.
Will it continue? Sadly, this is likely. Will it ruin the opportunity to buy these wines? In the end, yes. It is not easy to collect Burgundy when one is poor.
The potential and the hype
The hype is definitely bringing change to Burgundy, as new names want a share of the growing market potential and the cash it promises. If one can get 100 euros selling an unknown village, this will bring new opportunities for development.
Sadly, it’s all about talent, and let’s face it, this is where the issue becomes apparent. There is simply not enough talent to explore the vast potential in Burgundy.
Pick a random number: Let’s say that only 20% of the vignerons/vineyards produce interesting and even remotely hedonistic wines. (In fact, my random number would be 10%!)
This is not to say that 80% of the wines are poor; far from it. But it shows the potential that remains for truly hedonistic wines that will thrill your palate.
And yes, sadly a lot of wines are still mediocre!
New names in 2022
For me, Theo Dancer and Vincent Dancer were the revelations of 2022. These are great wines with, especially, Theo’s being very exciting.
Les Horees was a new name and the Flavour of the Year here on The Winehog. I’m exciting to see what the next several years will bring from them.
Charles Lachaux at Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux is still impressing me beyond words. He continues to develop and refine his style and presence. What can I say but: bravo!
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti deserves a huge “chapeau” for the development of its white wine portfolio. The (relatively) new Corton-Charlemagne is outstandingly great, and “new” Montrachet is presumably even better, although this is hard to comprehend.
And finally: Just give me a glass of Liger-Belair’s village Vosne Clos du Chateau. I am easily satisfied: I can make do with the best.