I always enjoy tasting at Domaine Georges Noëllat, where Maxime Cheurlin has for more than a decade now produced some memorable wines.
And so also in 2022!
Delaying malo – a note
As previously reported, Maxime Cheurlin has begun cooling his cellar to delay malolactic fermentation and slow elevage in general. Is this practice making a difference?
Based on my experience with his wines from 2017-21, my initial opinion is that the wines with later malo are a bit firmer and more precise. This could perhaps translate eventually into more complexity. They also have a slightly tighter note, promising greater cellaring potential.
Last year I wrote, “The wines have over the years gained focus, and gone is the rather early, forward, blossom and accessibility seen in Cheurlin’s first vintages, replaced by a somewhat tighter, more precise fruit.”
The 2021s, however, had some of the old-era, forward, sexy style found in Maxime’s earlier vintages like 2012 and 2013. Lighter, yes; but oh so sensual and sexy.
Clearly, 2021 and even 2022 are lighter years after the plethora of hot vintages we had from 2015 on. Lighter can, however, reveal some familiar notes in the wines, including an explosion of Vosne-Romanée spices.
The 2022s from Domaine Georges Noëllat
Based on my tasting, the 2022s from Georges Noëllat follow the tendencies seen at other (good) estates: The wines are somewhat lighter and quite energetic.
Notes from the tasting on November 23
The Vosne-Romanée 2022 is forward and appealing, with the nose jumping out of the glass. It’s a beautifully expressive wine, with plenty of Vosne spices and silky mid-palate fruit. Delightful, with an energetic stance.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (91p) – 
The Beaune Tuvilains 2022 from Maxime is floral and vivid, with rich, delicate fruit. Quite lively, this is intense, and gorgeous as usual. Bigger and more generous than the 2021, it is still a Beaune on the light-footed side.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ – (92p) – 
The Beaune Clos de la Mignotte 2022 is the bigger and better of the two Beaune wines. It has mineral complexity, and is more firmly structured than the Tuvilains. But -and there is a but – it perhaps lacks a bit of hedonistic pleasure.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ – (92p) –
The Morey-Saint Denis Monts Luisants 2022 is one of the new cuvees, and it certainly appeals to the Winehog. It has a fine mineral note coming from its position high on the slope. With rich fruit, nice balance, and good structure, this is a lovely glass.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine – (93p) –
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges 2022 is a prominent negociant bottling under the Maxime Cheurlin label. Is a nice wine by any standard, but it does not ring my bell, sadly. This vineyard has never been my favourite, and here the extraction is slightly heavy, leading to a lack of energy.
(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine (93p) – 
The Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes 2022 is one of my favourite wines from Georges Noëllat. It’s a negociant bottling, and is generous and opulent. Lively despite being somewhat low on acidity, this is a wine for pure enjoyment. Gorgeously hedonistic and open, it shows delightful mid-palate fruit. Not a wine for the long haul, but nevertheless vivid and seductive.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Fine+ (93p) – 
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 2022 is the surprise of the vintage: a truly delicious Boudots from a vineyard that doesn’t usually make me cheer loudly. This version is elegant, delicate, and intense, yet still with fine lightness. Extremely filigreed and delicate, it is a very nice effort.
(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine (94p) –
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