Visit to Domaine Sylvain Dussort – Tasting the 2021s

I like the wines from Domaine Sylvain Dussort, and while the 2021 vintage was difficult (frost and other issues), some exciting wines from the estate are now in bottle. Anne-Caroline is gradually taking over with, of course, backing from her father.

The Dussort estate

Domaine Sylvain Dussort is preparing a generational switch, readying Anne-Caroline to take over from Sylvain, who has reigned since 1982 at the prominent Meursault address of 12 rue Charles Giraud, just opposite Coche-Dury.

Anne-Caroline has worked in the wine business on the sales side (amongst others) in New York, and therefore brings a fresh, international view to the estate.

The wines at Dussort are very good, made in a more traditional style (What, by the way, is traditional these days?). That said, I would not call them old school, as they have great character and depth, and a certain density.

The Dussort wines have a solid identity and substantial mid-palate stance. They are not flabby or excessively silky and rich, and they show a qualitative note of reduction that contributes to good balance.

The flagship is the Bourgogne blanc

Sylvain Dussort fought hard to have the appellation Bourgogne Côte d’Or established. He considers this cuvee his estate’s flagship wine; it’s certainly the largest, with almost 10,000 bottles produced (not in 2021 though).

The attention to making great regional wine is clear, and tasting the Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a treat. It shows that not all Burgundies have to be packed with reduction in order to express fruit on a different level from other generic Burgundies.

The estate does produce other wines that objectively are greater: its Meursault Vieilles Vignes and Meursault Limozin both have more ageing potential and are indeed wines of character.

The domaine produces four whites and two reds, and we tasted all of them from the somewhat difficult ’21 vintage. Going back to the 2021s after tasting so many ’22s does not make it easier. But then again, it shows their interesting delicacy.

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Domaine Sylvain Dussort Aligote 2021

The 2021 Aligote is vivid, lively, and fresh. I find some fine saline notes here; a gorgeous Aligote, one of the very best tasted here. Aligotes from 2021 as a whole are really quite good.

(Drink from 203) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 04/12/2023

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Domaine Sylvain Dussort Bourgogne Cuvée des Ormes 2021

This is the domaine’s flagship wine, following Sylvain Dussort’s advocacy for the Bourgogne Côte d’Or appellation. It comes from plots in En l’Ormeau, Les Pellans, Les Malpoiriers, and Les Dressolles. This is hand-harvested and aged for 12 months on its lees in barrels (60%) and enamelled vats (40%). The ’21 is a lighter-footed, fresher wine compared with previous years. It’s charming, and calls for pasta alla vongole and other lighter fish dishes. Bottled under Diam 10.

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good+ – (88p) – Tasted 04/12/2023 –

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