As the explosion of wine prices accelerated, consumers’ demands are rightfully expanding commensurately. I don’t find it fair or reasonable to sell unclean wines for €30, €40, or even €100 – or more. All producers with a clean cellar and reasonable talent should be able to make – at a minimum – clean wines.
But the fact is there are still too many unclean wines. We all know them (the malodorous sense of dirty cellars and/or barrels). I have been speaking about this to wine lovers and vignerons; some get it, but a few still seem to ignore the problem and persist!
I continue to be puzzled about the acclaim some of these wines get. Even more how competent agents can turn a blind eye to them. I’m not here to reveal these wines or vignerons; but if I wanted the taste of tainted barrels and dirty cellars, I could get it for much cheaper outside Burgundy. You cannot, however, in the long run charge through the nose and then deliver poor, unclean wines. The market will have the last word.
But to each his own.
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