Last week I had the chance to sample a wine from the second vintage of Thomas Dam – a Danish Burgundy enthusiast and geek. This time Thomas has taken on Brochon, on the border with Fixin and a kissing cousin of Gevrey-Chambertin.
The cuvee, Côte de Nuits Villages Queue de Harang 2018, is from the top part of the Brochon appellation just north of Les Evocelles (a Gevrey village in Brochon) and just south Fixin’s 1er cru of the same name located in – you guessed it, Brochon. (See the story of Fixin 1er cru Queue de Harang here.)
Yet this wine is a Côte de Nuits Villages, the main appellation from the northern half of Brochon. Confused?
Thomas Dam is originally a blacksmith, and what could be more suitable than a Danish blacksmith forging wine from Brochon, making the terroir yield to a Viking?
Thomas Dam Côte de Nuits Villages Queue de Harang 2018
The Thomas Dam Queue de Harang (quite a difficult name) is vinified with 100% whole-cluster grapes and matured in used oak barrels – five casks in total, giving a production of 1500 bottles.
The wine is showing an exciting, intriguing character that reminds me more of the Fixin appellation just north of Brochon rather than the Gevrey found a few meters south. It has a gorgeous bouquet of blackberries and boysenberries, with hints of rose petals and leaves; bright berries with a stony intensity underneath. The whole-cluster character shows just after opening, but resolves very well on day two, letting the fruity character of the wine shine. The oak in a supporting role here offers good depth. Blind, I would call this a lovely, exciting Fixin, complete with the special brilliance one can get from pinot in the Fixin appellation. Not as complex palate-wise as Les Retrait, made by Dam in 2017, but somehow a more harmonious effort. Well done in 2018 – keeping the Viking cool. Chapeau to Thomas Dam!
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 17/11/2020