I know I can be somewhat grumpy at times, and complain that many wines produced in Chablis do not treat my snout as well as expected.
Clearly, the well-known, top domaines in Chablis always perform. It has been increasingly rare to find new estates to promote – until now, however, as some new producers are popping up.
One such estate is Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin, a 14-ha domaine that was founded in 1990. It was not until 2018 that the son-and-father estate reached full speed and started producing its full portfolio.
The Antoine et Laurent Robin line-up
From 2018, the estate produces the following wines – a fine and interesting range:.
- Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot – Vaudésir – Bougros
- Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon – Montmains – Montée de Tonnerre
- Petit Chablis
During the latest lockdown (lockdowns in Denmark are more liberal than the total confinement seen in other countries) I had the opportunity to taste a line-up of 2019s and a single 2018 from Antoine et Laurent Robin. The wines accompanied a fine lunch at Restaurant Møntergade in Copenhagen.
Restaurant Møntergade is a new restaurant created by Simon Olesen and Rasmus Amdi Larsen and their team. They previously ran the successful Palægade.
Simon and Rasmus have created a lovely, friendly place in Møntergade; a place for traditional Danish lunch and evening dining inspired by French brasserie style.
As always, they have managed to combine a friendly, informal atmosphere with high-quality food and a fine and interesting wine list, both of which fit well into the open room and its delightful ambience.
The restaurant is located in the old Restaurationen premises, where the great La Tâche tasting was held in 1995 – ten vintages of La Tâche from 1957 to 1990. Old people like me have their cherished memories to celebrate.
The Robin wines tasted
We starting out with the regular Chablis 2019, which confirmed the refined style of that vintage.
Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin Chablis 2019
Pure and intensely lively for this level, this comes from vines planted in 1954, and shows a combination of balanced fruit and gorgeous liveliness typical of the vintage. This has a slightly floral charm, and a flowery perfume that can lift a Chablis up to what I would call a mineral delight. Vin d’emotion at this level, it clearly deserves a strong recommendation. Drink young for the vivid freshness, or cellar it for your longer-term delight. Strutured and with slightly german inspiration.
(Drink from Now) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 23/11/2020 –
Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin Chablis Vaillons 2018
Tasting 2018 with the 2019s was not doing the ’18s any favours, although the balance in this Robin 2018 is surprisingly good. While the mineral expression of this Vaillons is a bit rough around the edges, it is rich and intense: a typical 2018 with some floral, stony elements that point to the need for spicier food. It is struggling compared with the Chablis 2019, but for sheer charm it has its strong points too.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 23/11/2020
Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 2019
The Montée de Tonnerre ’19 is a beauty, displaying a fine – and finely-grained – minerality; the Amoureuses of Chablis one could call it. This is definitely a vineyard to seek out if one is a fan of refinement. What’s more, this has both intensity and depth, and it ticks my box for a vin d’emotion.
(Drink from 2023) – Fine – (91-92p) – Tasted 23/11/2020 –
Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin Chablis Blanchots 2019
Blanchots is a grand cru, and is in a different league altogether with its intense and mineral notes. It’s floral and lively; not with the casual charm of the Montée de Tonnerre, but with a mineral oompf and push that can accompany even most intense dishes. A magnificent wine with great emotional values: This is a strong contender.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Fine – (92-93p) – Tasted 23/11/2020 –
Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin is a surprising, interesting estate that offers the values and qualities I am looking for in a good Chablis.
I highly recommended the 2019 vintage, and even the 2018 showed fine promise.
Now I want to taste some more!
The wines of Domaine Antoine et Laurent Robin were served by Rufus Vin Aps.