It has a classic touch, a special balance and elegance, and – I can’t explain why – an almost regal glow. I am talking about Domaine Carrette, a new-found favourite in Pouilly-Fuissé which I’ve discovered, along with a few other new stars in the Pouilly sky.
The estate is managed by the family’s third generation in the form of Hervé Carrette, who grew up tending the vineyards, and his wife Nathalie, an oenologist.
The family vineyards are spread among 40 different plots totaling 15 hectares across five ‘communes,’ including the highly regarded Vergisson and Solutré. Among them are several Pouilly-Fuissé premiers crus, starting with the 2020 vintage.
What is on The Winehog’s table is, however, one 2017, a bunch of 2018s, and one ever-so-minerally-sensual 2019.
Tremendous wines coming from true talent; indeed a lovely week for my glass.
To the tasting!
Domaine Carrette Pouilly-Fuissé 2019
Mineral, very lively and vivacious, this has the smell of crushed stones – smoky crushed stones – and is sexy and energetic. While it doesn’t have the precision and details of the more prestigious terroirs, it’s just so hedonistic!
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good– (87-88p) – Tasted 14/01/2021 –
Domaine Carrette Saint-Veran “Les Mures” 2018
Charming and forward with a hedonistic style, this is not sensationally complex, but still joyful. Quite rich, yet polished and beautifully sustained, especially after some time in the glass. Refined and drinking very well, it shows good mineral qualities. Why make things complex?
(Drink from 2021) – Good++ – Tasted 14/01/2021 – 😁
Domaine Carrette Pouilly-Fuissé “Ronchevat” 2018
Magnificent, this unfolds after some time in the glass – classic would be a good descriptor. The wine is rich, but not hot or rough around the edges like any number of white 2018s. Refined, with classic, focused, fine chalky mineral drive and good hedonistic qualities.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good (87-88p) – Tasted 14/01/2021 – 😁😄
Domaine Carrette Macon Milly-Lamartine 2018
Richer and more honeyed – almost velvety – this still has a fresh balance. It is rather intense, yet with fine lift and freshness, providing an interesting contrast within a wine that is rich in the best sense of the word. Quite magical; I can imagine how a more lively vintage would show. To be honest, Maconnais wines normally suffer more from hot years than the P-Fs – but not here apparently.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (87-88p) – Tasted 14/01/2021
Domaine Carrette Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Crays” 2018
Intense, and needs time to shed its slight reduction before revealing a slight grapey aroma that gives the wine a fresh, balancing note. It is generous palate-wise, but the reduction and vivid acidity save the cuvee from being too rich and ripe. Alcohol is 13.5%, but feels slightly more noticeable. This wine is on the edge, but somehow the Carrette couple’s talent and steady hand have made this into a delightful glass.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 14/01/2021 – 😁😄
Domaine Carrette Pouilly-Fuissé “Pres des Gours” 2017
Cooler, with more pronounced acidity, this is a generous wine that nonetheless still shows quite some reduction initially amongst the pine-needle, grapey freshness. Opens up after 20 minutes or so, getting more focus and complexity while shedding the reductive note yet maintaining the citrus/grape impression. With slightly more new oak, this is a big Pouilly-Fuissé. What a treasure!
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good+ – (89-90p) – Tasted 14/01/2021 –
This is pretty easy: These are high-quality wines, and even in a rich year like 2018 they show very well.
Both the 2019 and the 2017, however, show even more what potential there is in the livelier years. What a treat; an estate to follow!
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