Visit to Domaine d’Eugénie – Tasting the 2023s

Burgundy in the wintertime can be as gloomy as a poor vintage of Nuits-Saint-Georges served too hot to enhance the overly extracted misery.

I should not complain, but some days do not call for the largest smiles, however, last Thursday did actually induce both smile and laughter and some fruitful and interesting talks.

Present at Domaine d`Éugenie was Michel Mallard, winemaker from 2006 to 2024 and Jae Cramette the new winemaker from 2025.

I know both the winemakers quite well – so an open discussion was actually possible and wanted … this is always fun.

Domaine d’Éugenie

The Domaine d’Eugénie wines have improved tremendously over the years – especially the last five – reaching new levels of refinement and delicacy. These are very refined wines … even seen from a hedonistic standpoint.

Michel Mallard has taken the full journey from 2006 to 2024 and will stop at the end of 2024 when Jae Cramette will take over.

Change will be now, but in reality, the first vintage we see from Jae is in 2025/2026 … this will be exciting.

The premise of tasting top wines

When one does a tasting, it’s important to understand the context and premise in which the wines were made.

Domaine d’Eugénie is what one could call an iconic producer in more than one sense of the term. Firstly, the estate is made up of part of the great vineyards of the old René Engel estate in Vosne-Romanée. Secondly, d’Eugénie is the creation of Francois Pinault, who, since 2006, has rounded out the domain based on the former Engel vines by adding some important white vineyards in the Côte de Beaune.

The wines here are made with a dual purpose: to create great bottles that will deliver a fine expression of Burgundy character; and to be of the highest quality, regardless of where in the world you encounter them.

I rarely talk about this, but iconic estates – including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – need to take a number of things into consideration to ensure that their wines travel well and produce a great experience wherever in the world the cork is popped.

This sets limits on how low it is possible to go with sulphur and still ensure the ultimate in stability and quality. Remember, some of these wines will keep for 30 years or more.

Furthermore, there is a limit to how wild and “natural” the wines can be and still suit an international palate. Don’t expect wild and crazy wines if you enter the world of these classics – they are almost never seen.

The wines at Domaine d’Eugénie

Michel Mallard is the winemaker at Domaine d’Eugénie, and has been so since the initial vintage in 2006. He comes from Ladoix-Serrigny, where he also runs his family domaine which produces some fine wines from Corton and the appellations around Ladoix.

I have followed Domaine d’Eugénie since that first vintage, and I have seen a gradual, yet continual, improvement. Since 2015 (or even a couple of years earlier), that improvement has become more marked. D’Eugénie is now challenging some of the top estates in Vosne-Romanée on the quality level.

Michel Mallard is constantly striving to improve quality . In recent years, he worked with sulphur-free vinification. He still uses some sulphur at bottling, as the d’Eugénie wines are sold all over the world and must be protected during transport.

It’s always difficult to pinpoint specifics, but my feeling is that this change of vinification has given the wines more definition and detail, making the fruit more energetic and giving the palate a more effortless feel – something regularly seen in wines vinified without sulphur.

So, with all that as background, let’s go to the tasting notes of the fine, charming reds 2023s from d’Eugenie. They were tasted on December 16th 2024, from cask and tank.

Domaine d’Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 2023

The d’Eugenie village comes from two terroirs – Les Vigneux and Les Communes – which total 2.36 hectares. This Vosne village is currently a bit on the oaky side with 30% new oak … rich soil and the oak does give it a boost. It’s a charming, lively wine with loads of energy. The generous and vivid fruit from the vintage gives scents of violets and peonies. Has a nice saline note.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good – (89p) –

Domaine d’Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Clos d’Eugénie 2023

The village Clos d’Eugénie is from a 0.57-ha lieu-dit – and true clos – located just below La Tâche. This is a distinctive terroir, with an influence from the famous Grand Cru above as well as from the Clos Goilotte below. A more harmonious and bigger, silkier wine. Gorgeous fruit and It is already unfolding beautifully and is one of the charmers of 2023. Love it!

(Drink From 2032) – Fine – (91p) –

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