Meursault is a village with many surprises, and one is still able to find new producers there with interesting vineyards and delightful wines. One such is Domaine Jobard-Morey, an estate (evidently) related to both the Jobard and Morey families. The domaine is managed by the young Valentin Jobard, who took over from his uncle in 2013.
Valentin’s grandmother was Bernard Morey’s sister. She married a Jobard after World War II, and the couple started the domaine in 1949. Valentin Jobard is a cousin of the better-known Meursault producers Antoine and Remi Jobard. They cast a large shadow, but also give their younger cousin a fine opportunity to shine.
Valentin has taken control of the family vineyards, and he is working on cultivating the soil and vines in a more organic manner. The domaine is around 6 hectares, and contains a fine portfolio of Meursault vineyards, including 1ers crus Charmes and Poruzot. In addition, two highly regarded villages lieux-dits – Les Narvaux and Les Tillets – grace the portfolio. The estate even has a plot of Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or; The Winehog likes this somewhat overlooked 1er-cru vineyard, so I must visit this estate when travel returns to normal.
Vinification here is fairly classic, but well-timed, and with a sufficiently high yield to ensure that the 2018s are finely balanced rather than dense and obese.
Valentin uses 25% new oak and bottles under Diam closures. And while progress has already been made in the vineyards, one could well expect even further improvements as they recover from decades of sub-optimal viticulture.
Domaine Jobard-Morey Meursault 2018
Rich, citrus-infused and rather expressive, but controlled for a 2018. To call it energetic would perhaps be exaggerating, but that being said, it is in good balance for the vintage. Even on the second day there is a delightful note of generous chardonnay. It holds its form well in the glass, although it should be kept cool. Nice balance between yield and ripeness. A good glass of weighty, generous 2018 Meursault.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 01/02/2021 – 😄😄
Domaine Jobard-Morey Meursault Tillets 2018
A more mineral, citrus-driven wine, intense and rather vivid for the vintage – I really like Tillets. Very cool and with quite some reduction which nonetheless does not dominate. A bit more backward and minerally structured, this is very good. Beautiful balance between yield and generosity. The relatively high yield keeps the wine airy and fresh.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 01/02/2021 –
Domaine Jobard-Morey Meursault Charmes 2018
Quite a step up in intensity, and cool for a 2018. Very delicate balance in the bouquet; vivd with slightly summery spiciness and light reduction to spice things up. This is a delicate Charmes; not big and dense, but very vivacious and controlled. Serve this wine cool and it will reward your consideration by displaying a citrus-infused, slightly reduced note – quite delightful. The Jobard-Morey plot is in the top part of the vineyard between the plots of Latour-Giraud and Rémy Jobard, just below Meursault Perrieres – i.e. the best part of Charmes.
(Drink from 2031) – Very Fine (93p) – Tasted 02/02/2021 –
Domaine Jobard-Morey Meursault rouge 2018
Lovely red fruit: On the nose cherries and raspberries, both fresh and vivid for the vintage. Light-footed and airy with suitably restrained extraction. This is a small, attractive wine with a delightful Meursault note – a classic red Meursault, rare to find these days yet still very welcome. I really enjoyed this.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 05/02/2021 – 😄😄
This is a noteworthy estate with fine vineyards. I am really looking forward to tasting more wines from Valentin Jobard. The 2018s are truly impressive for the vintage – chapeau!
The Jobard-Morey wines were supplied by Danish importer Fine-Vine.