Le Grappin 2022 – London Calling

There are many streamlined, commercial estates in Burgundy these days. There are also a bunch of youngsters trying to make progress. And then there are the “hippie” domaines: estates run by innovative growers with a more experimental approach

Some of these hippies are so-so, but others have grown into interesting, exciting producers, often with limited funds for top-end vineyards. Le Grappin is just such a producer.

Le Grappin is owned and run by Andrew Nielsen and his wife Emma, and despite the rather Danish name, they hail from Australia and the United Kingdom respectively.

I have known Andrew from social media for many years, and I met him and Emma at tastings with Pacalet and Chantereves. They are truly lovely people, and their wines have improved year after year.

So it’s time for a visit!

To the notes

The wines have gone from wildness to free-range “hippy:” controlled, but with the Nielsen experimentalism still lurking under the surface. We like an edge and some wildness.

I know that Andrew originates from Australia, but my feeling is that he’s really more British, with the British respect for Burgundy’s history, the refinement that has entered his wines in the last five or so years, and the British humour madness just below the surface. “London Calling” is ringing in my ears.

The wines are made with respect for their terroirs. Andrew knows his Burgundy history, and knows how to use to get better wines, along with good stories to tell with them. This is Burgundy today at its best, and it’s a treat to visit Andrew and Emma and taste their wines.

Yes, I should have been here sooner. So: apologies to my readers, and sorry to Andrew and Emma. I will do better in the future.

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Whites

Le Grappin Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2022

A starting point, but a good one. With fresh, vivid, and delicate fruit, this has lovely cleanliness and a gorgeous, slightly saline note. There’s a lot to enjoy.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (87p) – Tasted 21/08/2023 –

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Le Grappin Macon Village 2022

This is a big wine for Le Grappin – 20% of total production. I think I prefer the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, but this is quite close in quality. It is denser, and with extended elevage the structure will take over from the exotic, slightly floppy fruit notes. It has a clear Macon character.

(Drink From 2024) – Good (86-87p) – Tasted 21/08/2023

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Le Grappin Montagny 2022

With slight reduction, but showing some nice saline notes, this will be bottled in February, when the elevage has added some structure and firmness. A delicate wine once the lees have done their work.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 21/08/2023 –

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Le Grappin Beaune Greves 2022

A white Beaune Greves is a rather rare bird, and this is a gorgeous white Beaune. It has the typical, slightly creamy note, yet is refined, with nice reduction to keep the wine fresh and focused. I adore this.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (91p) – Tasted 21/08/2023 –

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Le Grappin makes two aligotes, and they are really doing well in this category. We tasted one of the versions, and while it showed good promise, it is too soon to comment in detail. Next time!

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Reds

Le Grappin Savigny-les-Beaune 2022

The Savigny-les Beaune is a treat; one part matured in oak and another in concrete melted into one cuvée. The wood-matured part is superbly lively and vivid – a vin d’émotion and de soif up front; I could drink this gorgeous stuff directly from the barrel!!! The concrete-matured had more depth and seriousness, with some nice saline notes (salted caramel) as well as the vivid raspberries found in the barrel version. This will have a relatively short elevage, and will be so lovely once blended – although I would love to drink the barrel part by itself to cure myself of any winter depression.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 21/08/2023 –

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