Visit to Mark Haisma – Tasting the 2023 Reds

Mark Haisma’s winery is in a new business park in Gilly-les-Citeaux, the same one that houses the prominent Domaine Laurent Ponsot. I have repeated this many times, but while these new buildings are practical they are also quite ugly – aside from the Laurent Ponsot estate and the Rousseau and Dujac estates designed by Marine Leflaive and her good people.

Taking the old cellars away from the Burgundy estates is depriving Burgundy of the old magic. One of the reasons that we love Burgundy – is that I love to see the old cellars and hear the great stories of an old entrance to the neighbouring DRC cellar! Burgundy should hold these stories.

I do however meet all kinds of winegrowers, and I appreciate them all if the wines are good. And the Haisma line-up impresses me, simple as that. These wines have more Burgundian character than a lot of other, older, native estates and cellars. And fair enough he could not bring his Australian cellar to Gilly!

I like the basics of Mark’s wines. Not all of them are my favourites, but the best offer quite a lot more genuine “Burgundy” than many of the wines produced in nearby villages.

So let’s go to Gilly! The wines were tasted on November 21st 2024.

The 2023 reds from Mark Haisma

The quality of Haisma’s red 2023s really impressed me as did the 2022s. They were (as in previous years) made with a gentle hand, leaving ample room to express both fruit and terroir. They are on occasion vins d’émotion, easy-going and effortless. The 2023s has a beautiful liveliness… that really appeals to me.

Mark Haisma “A Bogan in Bogandy” 2023

The 2023 Coteaux Bourguignon has the usual Haisma touch: Slightly reductive but jumps from the glass. What can I say forward, and juicy with a nice freshness. Presumably still being called “A Bogan In Bogandy”? … an informal name for an informal wine.

(Drink from 2025) – Good – (87p) –

---

Mark Haisma Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023

The Bourgogne rouge is also a delicate wine. More lightfooted fresh and legér and even vivid. Not heavily extracted or dense, just delicious a vin de soif!

(Drink from 2025) – Good+ – (87-88p) –

---

Mark Haisma Volnay La Cave 2023

The Volnay La Cave is one of my favourite wines chez Haisma. It has juicy raspberries and wild strawberries on the nose, along with great tension in its intensely vivid, juicy fruit. It reminds me of Pinot Droit… regardless it is truly a hedonistic treat, As I wrote last year – I adore it: simple as that. So delicate and effortless – but not a big and mighty wine.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (90-91p) –

---

Mark Haisma Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins 2023

The Penand has 30% whole-cluster…. this does bring the a bit forward. An elegant and delicate Pinot, a cool with sour cherries on the nose and underlying saline notes that make it gourmand… a cep or truffle risotto, please.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (89-90p) –

---

Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 2023

From a mixed bag of village vineyards in Gevrey (amongst others La Justice and Billard). This is showing beautifully in 2023. Generous this has a rich and velvety touch but also freshness … 2023 does give this hedonistic energy… A vin de soif or Vin d’émotion.

(Drink from 2031) – Very Good (90p) –

---

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up. 

---