Pinot? Pinot Blanc? Pinot Gouges: the forgotten mutation

Pinot blanc is a somewhat overlooked grape in Burgundy, yet it is making interesting wines here and there. In the past, these wines rarely excited me, and they thrilled my senses even less. So I have been guilty of often ignoring this variety. But, as with other bright ideas, it is possible to learn and improve!

My ignorance lasted until I tasted the real deal in a true vin d`emotion from Domaine Henri Gouges: the Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges Blanc 2014. It really appealed to me and made me think, and inspired me to want to explore the Gouges whites.

Let’s go to the core of Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Gouges and Pinot Gouges

Domaine Henri Gouges was established in 1920, although the family has been present in Nuits-Saint-Georges much longer – ostensibly more than 400 years. Many of its vineyards were acquired by Henri Gouges, who expanded the holdings during a period when vineyards were affordable. These additions included Les Pruliers (acquired in 1920), Les Saint-Georges (1921), and the monopole of Clos des Porrets (1934). Note that the Clos des Porrets nursery of pinot blanc was planted from 1936-1940.

The Pinot Gouges – or perhaps more correctly the mutated Pinot Noir – variant of pinot blanc was discovered by Henri Gouges in 1936 in the Clos des Porrets, and it was used to create a nursery that was the base from which to expand the white holdings. In 1947, the domaine was able to produce one or two casks of white from the Pinot Gouges, although it was not sold commercially until the 1950s.

The Domaine Henri Gouges whites

The Gouges white portfolio is somewhat complex, as some of the wines are not produced every year if yields are too low. In total, Gouges has more than 1 ha of whites.

The following wines are produced:

• Bourgogne Pinot Blanc
• Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Crots
  Nuits-Saint-Georges La Perrière
• Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges

Les Crots and Clos des Porrets-St-Georges are only produced in years with sufficient yield, otherwise those grapes end up in the Bourgogne Pinot Blanc.

The plots of the white Nuits-Saint-Georges vineyards can be seen on the map below ..

But let’s take a closer look at the plots and vines producing the Gouges whites.


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