Pinot blanc is a somewhat overlooked grape in Burgundy, yet it is making interesting wines here and there. In the past, these wines rarely excited me, and they thrilled my senses even less. So I have been guilty of often ignoring this variety. But, as with other bright ideas, it is possible to learn and improve!
My ignorance lasted until I tasted the real deal in a true vin d`emotion from Domaine Henri Gouges: the Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges Blanc 2014. It really appealed to me and made me think, and inspired me to want to explore the Gouges whites.
Let’s go to the core of Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Gouges and Pinot Gouges
Domaine Henri Gouges was established in 1920, although the family has been present in Nuits-Saint-Georges much longer – ostensibly more than 400 years. Many of its vineyards were acquired by Henri Gouges, who expanded the holdings during a period when vineyards were affordable. These additions included Les Pruliers (acquired in 1920), Les Saint-Georges (1921), and the monopole of Clos des Porrets (1934). Note that the Clos des Porrets nursery of pinot blanc was planted from 1936-1940.
The Pinot Gouges – or perhaps more correctly the mutated Pinot Noir – variant of pinot blanc was discovered by Henri Gouges in 1936 in the Clos des Porrets, and it was used to create a nursery that was the base from which to expand the white holdings. In 1947, the domaine was able to produce one or two casks of white from the Pinot Gouges, although it was not sold commercially until the 1950s.
The Domaine Henri Gouges whites
The Gouges white portfolio is somewhat complex, as some of the wines are not produced every year if yields are too low. In total, Gouges has more than 1 ha of whites.
The following wines are produced:
- Bourgogne Pinot Blanc
- Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Crots
- Nuits-Saint-Georges La Perrière
- Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges
Les Crots and Clos des Porrets-St-Georges are only produced in years with sufficient yield, otherwise those grapes end up in the Bourgogne Pinot Blanc.
The plots of the white Nuits-Saint-Georges vineyards can be seen on the map below ..
But let’s take a closer look at the plots and vines producing the Gouges whites.
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Visit to Domaine Henri Gouges – tasting the 2019sHere he goes again – the 2019s are outrageously delightful, etc… And yes, here is another tribute to this fine vintage, but also a large and loud “chapeaux” to Domaine Henri Gouges, which has made the best wines I have ever tasted from this fine estate. This is indeed a big, blunt statement, as the ...
- Bourgogne Day 4 – Dynamic viticulture and more 2019sViticulture is becoming more and more important as global warming sets the scene for richer, weightier Burgundies. Charles Lachaux in the vineyard Wednesday included a very interesting tour in the vineyards of Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, guided by the super-dynamic Charles Lachaux – a man on a mission. Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Charles has taken things to the next level in the ...
- The Burgundy year 2019The Burgundy year 2019 is moving rapidly towards its end after many memorable moments. To be honest, I hate mission statements and other statements of objectives, but in the end they can be a useful rounding out of the year. The vins d’émotion – what’s in the glass Missions and statements are fine, but in the end, ...
- Pinot? Pinot Blanc? Pinot Gouges: the forgotten mutationPinot blanc is a somewhat overlooked grape in Burgundy, yet it is making interesting wines here and there. In the past, these wines rarely excited me, and they thrilled my senses even less. So I have been guilty of often ignoring this variety. But, as with other bright ideas, it is possible to learn and ...
- Visit Domaine Henri Gouges, tasting the 2018sI was very impressed by the 2017s from Domaine Henri Gouges when I tasted the line-up in February. I was therefore eager to taste the 2018 vintage when I had the opportunity in July. Domaine Henri Gouges – Antoine Gouges – July 2019 The 2018s are from a hot year; yet with its new style, Gouges has ...