Tasting Domaine Hubert Lamy 2023

Olivier Lamy is one of the greatest winemakers in Burgundy today. He has had me confused at times, but his explanation and clarification have convinced me.

The Lamy wines are brutally honest … perfectly expressing Olivier’s vision and the terroir. Some wines are more to my liking, but others do not fit my palate. Sometimes, the wine and the terroir show notes that are not in line with what I would like on that day.

The bigger terroirs show it all, and will satisfy all palates, while some of the lesser wines show only a part of the full picture. This is where some cuvées can conflict with my palate. I am looking to be gratified. I am looking to find a wine that will satisfy my need right here and right now, along with my spaghetti Vongole.

This is also why I will take a different angle on the Lamy wines … speaking more about the possibilities food-wise … thus, expressing the wines this way when we are speaking of the lesser wines.

The tasting of the 2023s was held at Domaine Hubert Lamy – November 18, 2025 with many of the big critics.

The 2023s are nicely focused due to the long elevage. Not as concentrated mid-palate-wise as the 2022s, but showing a very lovely drinkability.

Both 2022 and 2023 will do … the 2023s while you are waiting on the ripe and intense 2022s.

I can appreciate that 2022 is better, however, during the next five years, it seems that the 2023s provide me the pleasureI’m looking for. There are some beautiful 2023s on the menu.

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Chantenaire 2023

Entering at Chantenaire, a very drinkable wine with an appetiser appeal … more generously fruity than some of the bigger wines with less focus on the stony side of the terroir. Important wine in the lineup … for relaxed enjoyment. Like the 2023 with its open nature.

(Drink from 2026) – Good (87p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “La Princée” 2023

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (87p)

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs 2023

Moving to the Chassagne village, we get the expression that I love as the richer and more generous fruit gives me the possibility to pair the wine with light fish and poultry dishes. Fruit notes are lighter … what a delightful wine. Love the Chassagne minerality.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet “Les Tremblots” Classic 2023

The Puligny-Montrachet “Les Tremblots” is, as always, a step up. This is not just a vin de soif. Slight reduction … liveliness with a lovely and quite classical Puligny fruit. I adore the fruit and terroir of this wine … it appeals to light food … Spaghetti Vongole … you said it! The slight citrus note of Puligny works very well with seafood … love the fruit and mineral-driven finish. Both 2022 and 2023 will save my lunch and my week.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (90-91p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay “Clos des Graviéres” Blanc 2023

The Santenay Gravières is another style of wine … saline and quite muscular, and can go with even denser food. It is not as refined as the Puligny Tremblots, but it has an energy and persistent force that makes it very charming. Deep and quite elegant with its fascinating salinity. It is very textbook. I prefer the 2022 I think, with its even stronger saline notes.

(Drink from 2031) – Very Good (90p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “Clos Du Meix” 2023

As Prince on the deeper coloured fruit on this occasion … not for my palate currently …

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88p)

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “Les Frionnes” 2023

The Saint-Aubin “La Frionnes” is a pretty wine with rich fruit, slightly on the darker side. Perhaps on the slightly ripe side with the phenolics … what can I say? It is not making me fly in this vintage.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88-89p)

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “En Remilly” 2023

The Saint-Aubin En Remilly is a trusted favourite chez Lamy … also in 2023. The nose is very expressive and mineral-driven – offering plenty of charming and airy fruit. The perfect balance of power, intensity and complexity. Very lively at the moment … and yes, my go-to Vongole wine … so please cook me some Spaghetti Vongole.

(Drink from 2031) – Very Good (90-92p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “Derrière chez Edouard” 2023

Moving up to Saint-Aubin Derriére Chez Edouard, a more robust terroir offering more deep intense minerality. The bouquet offers lovely fresh reddish fruit brought forward by a quite vivid acidity. On the palate, we find a lovely balance. Another kind of Saint-Aubin, but I love it. Salmon with a tartar sauce perhaps. Drink 2022 before the 2023.

(Drink from 2031) – Very Good (90-91p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “Les Murgers des Dents de Chiens” 2023

The Saint-Aubin Les Murgers Dents de Chiens is a mineral powerhouse. Strong stone minerality that will take some food pairing to find the optimal combination. The nose offers cool and airy fruit, brought forward by the intense and vibrant minerality of this exciting terroir. Give it grilled seafood with some spices would work for me – A wine that craves lobster.

(Drink from 2031) – Fine (91-92p) –

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin “Clos de la Chatenière” 2023

Very elegant and vivid oulala … perfect mature fruit …. “Lovely liveliness… j’adore – sexy sexy”. Very appealing for drinking the full bottle and thinking about the next one. Lamy is using long elevage, and I find that it’s very important that the ripeness is on the perfect level or even slightly low on the phenolic side to maintain some tension in the fruit. 2023 is showing very well indeed.

(Drink from 2031) – Fine (92-93p) – 

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