Clos de la Roche is the king of Morey-Saint-Denis in some sense, and a vineyard that represent the tradition of the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation.
This is a vineyard quite dominated by Morey producers with the largest being Domaine Ponsot and Domaine Dujac and both Domaine Hubert Lignier and Georges Lignier own around 1 ha each. The old Rémy estate owned quite a substantial area of Clos de la Roche before it was divided and sold off – and was presumably the third largest owner at some point.
One of the most prominent but also somewhat overlooked wines made from Clos de la Roche actually originate from the holdings of the old Rémy estate in Morey-Saint-Denis.
The wine that I’m talking about is or cause the Clos de la Roche made by Domaine Leroy.
The Domaine Leroy in short
Domaine Leroy was founded in 1988, when Mme Bize-Leroy of Maison Leroy first acquired Domaine Charles Noëllat in Vosne-Romanée, and then in 1989 the Gevrey based estate Domaine Philippe Rémy.
Later on a few more acquisition followed to form the magnificent Domaine Leroy we know today. An estate with tremendous Grand Cru holdings in Romanée Saint-Vivant, Richebourg, Musigny, Chambertin, Latriciéres-Chambertin, Clos des Vougeot, Clos de la Roche, Corton-Renardes and Corton Charlemagne. Domaine Leroy now has 21 hectares, 99 ares, 66 centiares including the 1er crus and the village wines.
In addition Mme Bize-Leroy have established Domaine d’Auvernay with Grand Cru holdings in Criots Batard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrache, Batard-Montrachet, Bonnes Mares and Mazis-Chambertin.
These vineyard holdings are almost unparalleled in Burgundy – and adding the Leroy share of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – Mme Bize-Leroy is a true Burgundy legend.
Domaine Leroy and Clos de la Roche
As mentioned Mme Bize-Leroy acquired the Gevrey Chambertin estate Domaine Philippe Rémy in 1989. The Philippe Rémy estate was once a part of the large Rémy estate in Morey-Saint-Denis. The acquisition gave Mme Bize-Leroy additional grand cru vineyards in Gevrey and Morey.
According to Clive Coates 5 the vineyards acquired from Domaine Philippe Rémy included the following Grand Cru holdings:
- Chambertin – 0.4003 ha
- Latrichieres-Chambertin – 0.5716 ha
- Clos de la Roche – 0.6650 ha
But lets take a brief look at Clos de la Roche before we go into details with the Leroy plot!
Clos de la Roche .. one name several vineyards!
Clos de la Roche today consists of plots in 8 climats located on the upper northern side of Morey-Saint-Denis – see map below.
Plots from the following climats are today included in Clos de la Roche:
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When I ran Executive Wine Seminars in NY we always included the Leroy Clos de La Roche in blind tastings of good vintages–until they became all but unaffordable. It always came in 1st or 2nd for the reasons you describe of the recent vitntages. such a rich, sexy, accessible Grand Cru. Bob Millman
Bob – it does seem like its more accessibe that the Vosne wines, even the 1er crus from Vosne are quite tightly knit and need plenty of time to unfold – whereas the Clos de la Roche is more silky and even sexy.