One rarely see a producer in Burgundy making two different wines from the same vineyard, unless it’s a declassification of young and younger wines.
Etienne de Montille has however decided to make two cuvees from Vosne-Romanee Aux-Malconsorts – one regular cuvee made from two plots inside Malconsorts and a special cuvee made from a 0.4765 ha plot located on the southeastern corner of La Tâche Joly de Bévy – he has named this cuvee after his mother Chistiane .. so it must be something special .. and it is in my view.
So lets go walkabout in the La Tâche outskirts.
Ownership history – from Marey to Montille
The special plot “inside” La Tâche has an interesting ownership history … with only three owners during the last 200 years.
As usual the ownership history is quite well documented by the three main sources – Lavalle, Danguy & Aubertin and Rodier.
In 1855 Lavalle1 mentioned the following owners on Malconsorts: Lenoir, Marey and Moisenet-Meulien.
The ownership history before 1855 is somewhat unclear, but the Marey family could well have acquired the plots on Malconsorts shortly after the revolution i.e. late 18th century or early 19th century. Marey was well known as one of the major owners in Vosne-Romanee in the 19th century and onwards. Some of the vineyards were later included in the Liger-Belair holdings as Comte Louis Liger-Belair married the daughter of Guillaume Felix Marey and took over the management of C.Marey and Comte Liger-Belair in 1869 – at the death of Guillaume Felix Marey.
Danguy & Aubertin2 mentioned the following owners in 1892: Dr Chanut, Liger-Belair and Veuve de Millot. The only remaining owner from 1855 was Liger-Belair (Marey).
During the late 1920s and early 1930s the financial crises hit Burgundy and a lot of vineyards changed hands in this period.
The Liger-Belair vineyard holdings were auctioned away in 1933 and only a small selection of vineyards remained under the Liger-Belair ownership. The extensive holdings in Malconsorts were acquired by the Thomas-Moillard estate – including the plot located just next to the original La Tâche vineyard – the plot above the dotted line on the map below.
Finally in 2005 the Thomas-Moillard holdings on Aux Malconsorts were sold to Domaine Dujac and Domaine de Montille. The two buyers divided the plots amongst them – with Montille getting the plot located “inside” La Tâche and Dujac getting the other plots located closest to La Tâche. Montille also got the plots southern end of the Thomas-Moillard holdings – see the current ownership map below.
The Aux Malconsorts Christiane terroir
The Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanee Aux Malcomsorts Christiane is made from a 0.4765 ha plot located in lower northern part of the Malconsort vineyard – just next to the original part of La Tâche – previously called La Tâche Joly de Bévy and just above Vosne-Romanee les Chaumes – see map below.
The location of the plot is pretty special, as it’s located “inside” La Tâche Joly de Bévy, and while it has never been a part of that vineyard it still has a mythical status due to the unique geographic location.
The border towards La Tâche Joly de Bévy have remained more or less unchanged since the first cadastre maps from 1827 – see below.
The “border” towards the rest of Malconsorts has however changed, as the plot “inside” La Tâche have been expanded to fill the area underneath the La Tâche. But since the plot “inside” La Tâche was not vinified separately before 2005 these borders inside Malconsort had little or no meaning during the previous ownership.
Etienne de Montille did however see a special potential in the plot “inside” La Tâche and decided to make two cuvee’s from the very first vintage he made after he acquired the vineyard – i.e. the 2005 vintage.
Domaine de Montille (no 2 on the map below) own three sections within Aux Malconsorts, the plot “inside” La Tâche and two plots located south of the Dujac (3) section of Malconsorts – see Map below.
Current Owners on Malconsorts:
- Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) – 1.7766 ha
- Domaine Montille – 1.3700 ha
- Domaine Dujac – 1.3313 ha
- Domaine Sylvain Cathiard – 0.7435 ha
- Domaine Lamarche – 0.4999 ha
- Domaine Hudelot Noellat – 0.1370 ha
The Wine – Domaine de Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane
The Aux Malconsort Christiane is a special wine, and while it shares the fundamentals qualities of the “regular” Malconsorts from Montille, the terroir just next to the original part of La Tâche adds something extraordinary …
Both wines have quite ample fruit, they are intense yet not extracted in any way, they are weighty without being dense. The expression of minerality is .. in my view slightly more delicate and refined in the Christiane, and this cuvee also seems a bit more firmly structured by the tannins. The regular cuvee also lacks a bit of depth in the fruit compared to the Christiane.
The main difference is however in my view the perfumed spicyness of the cuvee Christiane – that adds new layers of filigree nuances to the wine. It’s a bit understated and very effortless but displays a myriad of different Vosne spices …. with a Zen like effortlessness.
References & Sources:
- Jules Lavalle, Histoire et Statistique de la Vignes et Des Grands Vins de la Côte d’Or (1855)
- M.R. Danguy et M. Ch. Aubertin, Les Grands Vins de Bourgogne (1892)
- Camille Rodier, Le Vin de Bourgogne (1920)
Latest tasting Notes for this vineyard
- Bruno Clavelier Corton Le Rognet 2010 May 23, 2020
- Domaine Truchetet Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Topons 2018 May 7, 2020
- Domaine Truchetet Côtes de Nuits Village 2018 April 28, 2020
- Domaine Comte de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru 2005 April 17, 2020
- Domaine Vincent Ledy Chorey-les-Beaune 2016 April 17, 2020
- Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Les Luchets 2017 February 28, 2020
- Domaine Fabien Coche Bourgogne Cote d’Or 2017 Chardonnay February 28, 2020
- Domaine de la Douaix Côtes de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes 2015 February 17, 2020
- Domaine de la Douaix Côtes de Nuits Villages Terres Nobles 2011 February 16, 2020
- Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Volnay Caillerets Clos de 60 Ouvrées 2005 February 13, 2020
- Domaine de Montille Clos Vougeot 2008 February 10, 2020
- Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 2010 February 9, 2020
- Domaine de la Douaix Côtes de Nuits Villages VV 2012 February 8, 2020
- Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2010 February 8, 2020
- Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc 2010 February 7, 2020
- Domaine Dublère Corton-Charlemagne 2011 February 7, 2020
- Domaine de la Douaix Corton Blanc 2017 February 7, 2020
- Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand Gevrey-Chambertin “La Justice” 2017 January 30, 2020
- Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne Clos du Chateau 2009 January 3, 2020
- Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne 2017 December 5, 2019
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