One rarely see a producer in Burgundy making two different wines from the same vineyard, unless it’s a declassification of young and younger wines.
Etienne de Montille has however decided to make two cuvees from Vosne-Romanee Aux-Malconsorts – one regular cuvee made from two plots inside Malconsorts and a special cuvee made from a 0.4765 ha plot located on the southeastern corner of La Tâche Joly de Bévy – he has named this cuvee after his mother Chistiane .. so it must be something special .. and it is in my view.
So lets go walkabout in the La Tâche outskirts.
Ownership history – from Marey to Montille
The special plot “inside” La Tâche has an interesting ownership history … with only three owners during the last 200 years.
As usual the ownership history is quite well documented by the three main sources – Lavalle, Danguy & Aubertin and Rodier.
In 1855 Lavalle1 mentioned the following owners on Malconsorts: Lenoir, Marey and Moisenet-Meulien.
The ownership history before 1855 is somewhat unclear, but the Marey family could well have acquired the plots on Malconsorts shortly after the revolution i.e. late 18th century or early 19th century. Marey was well known as one of the major owners in Vosne-Romanee in the 19th century and onwards. Some of the vineyards were later included in the Liger-Belair holdings as Comte Louis Liger-Belair married the daughter of Guillaume Felix Marey and took over the management of C.Marey and Comte Liger-Belair in 1869 – at the death of Guillaume Felix Marey.
Danguy & Aubertin2 mentioned the following owners in 1892: Dr Chanut, Liger-Belair and Veuve de Millot. The only remaining owner from 1855 was Liger-Belair (Marey).
During the late 1920s and early 1930s the financial crises hit Burgundy and a lot of vineyards changed hands in this period.
The Liger-Belair vineyard holdings were auctioned away in 1933 and only a small selection of vineyards remained under the Liger-Belair ownership. The extensive holdings in Malconsorts were acquired by the Thomas-Moillard estate – including the plot located just next to the original La Tâche vineyard – the plot above the dotted line on the map below.
Finally in 2005 the Thomas-Moillard holdings on Aux Malconsorts were sold to Domaine Dujac and Domaine de Montille. The two buyers divided the plots amongst them – with Montille getting the plot located “inside” La Tâche and Dujac getting the other plots located closest to La Tâche. Montille also got the plots southern end of the Thomas-Moillard holdings – see the current ownership map below.
The Aux Malconsorts Christiane terroir
The Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanee Aux Malcomsorts Christiane is made from a 0.4765 ha plot located in lower northern part of the Malconsort vineyard – just next to the original part of La Tâche – previously called La Tâche Joly de Bévy and just above Vosne-Romanee les Chaumes – see map below.
The location of the plot is pretty special, as it’s located “inside” La Tâche Joly de Bévy, and while it has never been a part of that vineyard it still has a mythical status due to the unique geographic location.
The border towards La Tâche Joly de Bévy have remained more or less unchanged since the first cadastre maps from 1827 – see below.
The “border” towards the rest of Malconsorts has however changed, as the plot “inside” La Tâche have been expanded to fill the area underneath the La Tâche. But since the plot “inside” La Tâche was not vinified separately before 2005 these borders inside Malconsort had little or no meaning during the previous ownership.
Etienne de Montille did however see a special potential in the plot “inside” La Tâche and decided to make two cuvee’s from the very first vintage he made after he acquired the vineyard – i.e. the 2005 vintage.
Domaine de Montille (no 2 on the map below) own three sections within Aux Malconsorts, the plot “inside” La Tâche and two plots located south of the Dujac (3) section of Malconsorts – see Map below.
Current Owners on Malconsorts:
- Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot) – 1.7766 ha
- Domaine Montille – 1.3700 ha
- Domaine Dujac – 1.3313 ha
- Domaine Sylvain Cathiard – 0.7435 ha
- Domaine Lamarche – 0.4999 ha
- Domaine Hudelot Noellat – 0.1370 ha
The Wine – Domaine de Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane
The Aux Malconsort Christiane is a special wine, and while it shares the fundamentals qualities of the “regular” Malconsorts from Montille, the terroir just next to the original part of La Tâche adds something extraordinary …
Both wines have quite ample fruit, they are intense yet not extracted in any way, they are weighty without being dense. The expression of minerality is .. in my view slightly more delicate and refined in the Christiane, and this cuvee also seems a bit more firmly structured by the tannins. The regular cuvee also lacks a bit of depth in the fruit compared to the Christiane.
The main difference is however in my view the perfumed spicyness of the cuvee Christiane – that adds new layers of filigree nuances to the wine. It’s a bit understated and very effortless but displays a myriad of different Vosne spices …. with a Zen like effortlessness.
References & Sources:
- Jules Lavalle, Histoire et Statistique de la Vignes et Des Grands Vins de la Côte d’Or (1855)
- M.R. Danguy et M. Ch. Aubertin, Les Grands Vins de Bourgogne (1892)
- Camille Rodier, Le Vin de Bourgogne (1920)
Latest tasting Notes for this vineyard
- Domaine Arnaud et Sophie Vosne-Romanee Les Barreaux 2018 September 10, 2020
- Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 2015 September 8, 2020
- Domaine Serafin Gevrey- Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2018 September 1, 2020
- Domaine Denis Carré Meursault Tillets 2017 September 1, 2020
- Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle Musigny Les Combottes 2010 September 1, 2020
- Comte Lafon Meursault Genevrieres 1990 July 4, 2020
- Comte Lafon Meursault Genevrieres 1988 July 1, 2020
- Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux 1992 June 30, 2020
- Domaine Roulot Meursault Charmes 2007 June 27, 2020
- Comte Lafon Meursault Charmes 2001 June 27, 2020
- Comte Lafon Meursault Genevrieres 1989 June 26, 2020
- Comte Lafon Meursault Goutte d’Or 1988 June 26, 2020
- Faiveley summer wines: a Chambolle surprise June 25, 2020
- Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Les Chevalières 2017 June 24, 2020
- Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Goutte d’Or 2017 June 24, 2020
- Faiveley summer wines: a delightful La Framboisière June 19, 2020
- Faiveley summer wines: the fresh Montagny June 13, 2020
- Faiveley summer wines: the generous white Mercurey June 10, 2020
- Domaine Naudin-Ferrand Côte de Nuits Villages «Viola Odorata» 2016 June 9, 2020
- Faiveley summer wines: the vivid Ladoix June 8, 2020
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