The world is strange. I have been very lucky assembling enough material to continue writing articles during the last three months, when travelling was banned.
My first post-virus tasting – earlier this month while observing the rules of social distancing and disinfection – was in Vosne-Romanée: a re-tasting of Bruno Clavelier’s 2017s. It was a quiet afternoon tasting, with eight people sampling the vintage from bottle.
In Denmark the wines of Domaine Bruno Clavelier are imported by Wine in Vein – who was the generous organiser of this tasting.
All the wines showed very well indeed, aside from one corked example. Otherwise, these are vivid, lively wines – exactly the type of 2017s I adore.
Bruno Clavelier Bourgogne Aligote 2017
Clavelier’s Bourgogne Aligote is a special wine, made from very old vines almost 100 years old (planted in 1921). It’s an intense wine with some weight, and the clear balance of the 2017 vintage. There’s a lovely mineral tone; intense, with a very harmonious feel. One of the best Aligotes from Bruno so far.
(Drink from 2019) – Good+ – (87p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2017
The Passetoutgrain (8% Gamay) comes from 80-year-old vines. A forward, light-footed wine, this shows lovely freshness. It has fine acidity and is a delightful expression of the 2017 vintage. As I wrote when I tasted this from cask: Passetoutgrain should not be dismissed. Drink some!
(Drink from 2019) – Good+ – (86p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Bourgogne Rouge 2017
The Bourgogne rouge has a fine, vivid feel, and is a bit more serious than the Passetoutgrain, although it perhaps lacks the vivacity of the former. It is nevertheless very detailed: the 2017 vintage does have a singular character.
(Drink from 2019) – Good – (85-86p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanee Les Hautes de Beaux Monts 2017
The Hautes de Beaux Monts shows a lovely expression of Vosne terroir: blueberries and blackcurrant, all while being rather light-footed. The bouquet is lively and expressive, forward, open – textbook. This could well be consumed now – in large volume!
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 01/06/2020 –
Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres 2017
The Vosne-Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres is more serious and robust. It will need some time to reveal its layers of red and dark berries and Vosne spices with an enticing hint of curry and turmeric. I always like Maizieres.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanee La Combe Brulee 2017
The Vosne-Romanee La Combe Brulee is a bit sweeter and more sensual, brimming with red – perhaps even Amaretto – cherries. It has a slightly decadent opulence, and features raspberries with a bit of redcurrant and hints of rose petals. This is drinking so well now.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanee La Montagne 2017
The Vosne La Montage is a brilliant wine with sensual Vosne spices of curry, camphor, and violets. It is airy and sensual with a feeling of minimal sulphur, permitting the wine to flow over the palate. Very lightly extracted, with a transparent, delicate feel. A delightful vin d’émotion.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 01/06/2020 –
Bruno Clavelier Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Cras 2017
The NSG Aux Cras is a step up in weight and intensity. It’s expressive and vivid with sweet red fruit, mulberries, and a hint of tobacco leaf. This is intense, yet with sensual 2017 fruit. What delicate depth!
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good+ – (90-91p) – Tasted 01/06/2020 –
Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots 2017
The Chambolle Les Noirots 2017 is a rare bird from a vineyard located below Bonnes Mares. This is intense, especially considering the vintage, with a robust, earthy backbone. Yet it is still refined and mineral, although a bit reduced currently.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good+ – (90-91p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveaux 2017
The Chambolle La Combe d’Orveaux is the southern neighbor of the Vogüé Petit Musigny, and the minerality here is outstanding, to say the least. The crunchy limestone impression is so intense that it insists you give this wine time and respect. The fruit is profoundly deep and infused with minerality, with notes of boysenberries, mulberries, and raspberries. An almost painfully intense wine, with the mineral backbone dominating the scene in its youth.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Fine – (93-94p) – Tasted 01/06/2020 –
Bruno Clavelier Corton Rognets 2017
The Corton Rognets is the only grand cru in the Clavelier range. It’s darker and deeper and perhaps more Vosne than Corton, with its sensual, violet feel. This has a deep bouquet of blueberries and raspberries with some floral notes and quite some intensity. A lovely glass, although it doesn’t quite seduce me.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ 92p – (92-93p) – Tasted 01/06/2020
What can I really hedonistically recommend? La Montagne … and when I get richer, the Combe d’Orveaux!