Visit Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet – tasting of the 2015s from cask

One of the new very exiting estates in Burgundy is Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet – it involves Domaine Berthaut in Fixin, Domaine Gerbet in Vosne-Romanée and some rented vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin.

The estate has now changed name to Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet (in previous vintages it was a mix of Domaine Berthaut and Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet) – and is still managed by the fabulous Amélie. She has been very lucky to take over not only her fathers estate in Fixin, and with that some additional vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin but also and not least some of the Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Echezeaux and Clos de Vougeot plots from her mothers side – i.e. Domaine Gerbet in Vosne-Romanée.

Amélie now has a beautiful portfolio of vineyards, and the wines are getting more and more defined in the style she has set, that slowly include a bit more whole cluster grapes in some of the wines. The style has evolved from the very pure and classic slightly old school style of Domaine Berthaut, and is now offering some more mid-palate generosity and delicacy – while maintaining the purity of her fathers wines. 

The journey has just begun, and changes here are done with care, respecting both traditions and the style of the older vintages. This is going very well indeed.

Personally I see a clear development from the beginning in the 2013 vintage – towards higher quality, more energetic and detailed wines. In the 2015 vintage we see an additional mid-palate generosity that suits the style very well.

I do prefer the wines with a nice percentage of whole cluster .. as this seem to enhance the complexity and the wines do become more expressive in my view. This is however a matter of preference – they are all very fine wines to be proud of – and first and foremost wines that all collectors of Burgundies should consider when the stock and rack up the 2015 vintage in the cellar.

The tasting was held in the largest and latest cellar of the old Domaine Berthaut in Fixin – a cold and large celler, that has been refurbished to take all the new cuvées coming from the Gerbet estate.

Always a pleasure to hear Amélies thoughts about the wines and the considerations around the different cuvées … clearly one of the emerging stars of Burgundy.

Tasting notes from the tasting November 8th 2016

As mentioned all the wines are now labeled Berthaut-Gerbet as the “new” estate is called. Most of the wines showed very well on the day – although a slight reduction was present in a few of the wines.

First out the Bourgogne Rouge made from vines planted in Fixin – a pure quite generous generic Burgundy – offering the rich and ripe fruit of the vintage. Lovely fruit and freshness .. Fixin did very well in 2015 as did Gevrey and Brochon. A attractive wine that offers a nice slice of Burgundy 2015 – at a fair price – showing that Burgundy is not always that expensive. Good (85 – 86p).

The Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin 2015 is a step up in definition and intensity. Fixin is often being considered as a bit austere and hard .. but the new style of Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet is aiming to change this – and the somewhat hot 2015 vintage certainly helps, a perfect match for the Fixin terroirs. This village Fixin is both forward and rich – its elegant and harmonious .. with a lovely fruit on the mid-palate. A enjoyable wine .. Good+ (86 – 87p).

Next up is Fixin Les Crais 2015 – a terroir often producing some of the most enjoyable and forward Fixin. This has 10 – 15% whole cluster … adding a bit to the expressiveness, although not dominant in the wine. This is offering a lovely juicy midpalate fruit vibrant with some fine pomegranate notes to create tension and freshness – quite some millerandage grapes in this wine it seems. Hard to maintain the austere image of Fixin with a wine that offer these hedonistic qualities … a lovely wine by any standard – Good+ (87 – 88p).

Fixin En Combe Roy 2015 is a step up to a more complex serious wine. In this wine the percentage of whole cluster is 40% adding new dimensions to the wine. The bouquet offer a rich and expressive fruit spiced with hints of cinnamon and allspice. On the palate rich and quite organic fruit – it’s vibrant and very forward displaying a lot of organic character. Love the style and expressive energy of this wine – Very Good (88 – 89p).

Moving on to Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux is a magnificent village. Here the whole cluster is up to 50% … and the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation has done tremendously well in this vintage. This is a very juicy and expressive wine – lovely red berry fruit in the bouquet with a cinnamon reference to the whole cluster presence. On the palate rich and very juicy fruit .. expressive, vibrant and pure .. with a lovely energy – Very Good+ (90 – 91p)

The Vosne-Romanée 2015 made from plots located just south of the village “Les Réas” and ”Au Dessus de la Rivière” – wines planted in 1960. This village is differently styled with no whole clusters added. This is also a truly delightful village .. the best from Amélie so far. The bouquet offer plenty of fruit and Vosne spicyness – pure and expressive. On the palate rich and generous fruit – fine tensions between sweet red fruity and some vibrant pomegranate elements presumably from the millerandage grapes. The acidity is very good in this wine and the terroirs offer a lovely expression of the Vosne appellation – especially Aux Réas is also known as one of the top village terroirs. A Fine (90 – 91p) village in the making .. impressive balance and freshness.

Next wine is the top Fixin – the Fixin Les Arvelets 2015 .. a very intense wine .. below 15 hl/ha harvested in 2015 – 20% whole cluster used. A serious and intense wine, lovely depth and complexity in the bouquet .. juicy fruit and a rather powerful minerality. On the palate vibrant and juicy with a deep and intense mid-palate fruit .. a big and refined Fixin – Fine (90 – 91p).

From Fixin to Chambolle-Musigny Les Plante .. first time I taste this cuvée from this slightly overlooked 1er cru located below the village of Chambolle. This is a fresh and vibrant wine – as many of the wines from the Chambolle appellation in 2015. The nose is bursting with red and juicy fruit – raspberries, red currant and pomegranate. On the palate cool and quite exuberant mainly red fruit – a beauty unfolding .. Fine+ (92 – 93p).

The Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2015 is a mighty wine just confirming the Gevrey success in this vintage. The nose is offering deep and relatively dark fruit – intense with a fine deep earthy minerality. On the palate rich and weighty with plenty of fruit offering fine balance and expression of terroir – Fine+ (92 – 93p)

The Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots is a new wine in the Berthaut-Gerbet portfolio – and what better year to start than the 2015 vintage. Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots can be slightly weighty if coming from the lower part of the vineyard – but in 2015 the cool breeze from the Combe above Brûlées has produced some magnificently vibrant Les Suchots – and this is also the case with the Suchots from Berthaut-Gerbet. The bouquet is bursting with vibrant and juicy fruit – fresh notes of pomegranate and red currant – with fine expression of minerality. On the palate rich and generous with a beautiful balance – love the balance between the vibrant freshness and the quite abundant juicy fruit. Very Fine (93 – 94p).

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Vosne-Romanee Les Petits Monts 2015 … from one of my favorite vineyards in Vosne-Romanée. Slight reduction currently .. but still showing its potential. The nose offer deep red and darker fruit .. lovely filigree minerality and Vosne spices. On the palate deep rich and juicy fruit – not as energetic as Les Suchots but offering additional depth and intensity. A bigger wine than Les Suchots … more refined and filigree … but they are quite close quality wise in my view. Very Fine (93 – 94p)

The Echezeaux 2015 is a both serious and delightful glass. This is made from plots in Les Treux and Quartiers de Nuits – in the southern part of Echezeaux. The bouquet is crammed with red and dark fruit – intense and deep – offering a transparent view of the terroir. On the palate rich and very deep indeed – offering tremendous intensity and length. A quite big and balanced Echezeaux – Very Fine+ (94 – 95p).

The Clos de Vougeot 2015 is an outstanding effort. The nose is a bit closed but underneath the slight reduction there is a beautiful collection of fresh red and darker berries unfolding a lovely cool complexity. On the palate rich and very energetic freshness – a very fine acidity for the vintage it seems .. love the refined and cool presentation of the fruit. This is a gorgeous and elegant Clos de Vougeot in the making … Outstanding (94 – 95p).

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Tasting Notes for this producer

• Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 2016 November 23, 2018

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