Visit to Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont – Tasting the 2021s from Cask

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont – also known as Domaine Axelle Machard de Gramont – is one of my fixed annual tastings.

Axelle’s are truly honest wines; no sales talk, rather a natural, organic view of each vintage. This is somewhat rare these days, when prices seem to be an increasing focus for many estates.

On the program this time was tasting the 2021s – a challenging vintage.

A bit of background on Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont is a relatively small estate originating from Nuits-Saint-Georges. It farms six hectares in total, located mainly in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation, but with plots in Vosne-Romanée and Vergy as well.

The domaine has family links with the Machard de Gramont estate in Premeaux and the Chantal Lescure estate in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It was established in 1983 by Bertrand Machard de Gramont (Axelle’s father) when his family domaine was divided into three parts. Bertrand had until then worked at the family estate after a time at Domaine de Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny, working under Alain Roumier, the old regisseur there.

Axelle Machard de Gramont returned to Burgundy in 2004 to take on the vigneronne challenge. She is now running the estate, with support from her dad.

An important vinification change via modified elevage

Axelle made an important change to the vinification – or rather the elevage – of her wines in 2018, by reducing the time they spend in oak, and instead continuing their maturation in stainless-steel tanks. In total, her wines spend 12-14 months in cask followed by six months in tank.

This does change the character of the wines: They appear more energetic and forwardly fruity. This technique was applied beginning in 2018, and has continued since, and while not a ground-breaking change, the wines have benefitted, showing a livelier mid-palate, which plays well into the organic style and image of the estate.

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont’s 2021s

The 2021s are cooler and lighter, a return to the classical Burgundies of the past with recent vintages’ layers of very ripe, intense fruit peeled off. These are Burgundies to the core. Compare the lesser 2021 wines to the 2020s, for example, and the ’21 will appear almost rose-like. In reality, it is that the 2020s that are really, really powerful.

Some modern Burgundy drinkers will consider these wines light, and they would be right. But many Burgundy lovers have been longing for just such classic, elegant Burgundies, and one trade-off of getting this is that they are lighter. Accept this, or move on.

Let’s taste!

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Bourgogne Rouge Les Grands Chaillots 2021

The Bourgogne Rouge is made from a plot in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation below the road and Chaillots. Please note: This is not a village, it’s a regional wine. It is light-footed and airy in 2021, delicate and perfumed – a vin de soif. If you like a light summer Burgundy, this is a lovely choice.

(Drink from 2023) – Good – Tasted 11/11/2022 –

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2021

A signature wine for this estate, this comes from the terraces that can be seen from the RD974 between NSG and Premeaux (see photo below). The 2021 Terrasses is also a light-footed wine, and I find it refreshing that it has not been stretched or extracted to appear more potent. It has lovely, perfumed hints of orange and the sun. This is a real summer wine, and it’s a delight.

(Drink from 2023) – Good+ – (87-88p) – Tasted 11/11/2022 –

Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vallerots 2021

Les Vallerots is a notch up from Les Terrasses concentration-wise. Somewhat darker, it shows greater depth and intensity. I find the previous two lighter wines to have more charm, but this is a nice glass.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 11/11/2022

Tasting Notes for this producer

• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Vosne-Romanée 2015 July 23, 2017
• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Aux Allots 2015 July 23, 2017
• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Bourgogne Grands Chaillots 2015 July 23, 2017
• Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Aligote 2015 July 23, 2017

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