I have had many great moments with the wines from Domaine des Comtes Lafon over the years, and have enjoyed vintages from 1982 and forward. I have been lucky to taste more white Burgundies from this fabled estate than from any other estate in Burgundy. Yes indeed, I have been spoiled.
Directeur Stéphane Thibodaux of Domaine des Comtes Lafon (right)
I have also had my share of disappointments as the premox problems swept over Burgundy just as I began to collect white Burgundies … this has taken its toll over the years.
Domaines des Comtes Lafon has however used the Diam 30 closures since the 2013 vintage to minimise or even eliminate further problems. Read my interview with Didier Séguier of Domaine William Fevre about the experience with the Diam closure since 2003 – click here to see the interview.
And now to the fun stuff .. the quite delightful 2015s whites from Lafon.
We had the opportunity to taste the wines with Stéphane Thibodaux the directeur and winemaker at Domaine des Comtes Lafon on a beautiful sunny day – March 29th 2017 to be exact. The wines were tasted from tank and showed very well indeed on the day – my first visit to this estate.
The 2015 whites from Lafon
The 2015s from Lafon are generous but balanced and delicious offering a lot of mid-palate charm – the do have a quite lovely energy and freshness. The vintage has provided a good freshness despite the somewhat voluptuous fruit, and the organic and biodynamic producers does seem to have an edge here with a slightly higher acidity and better PH.
Lafon has been certified organic since 1995 and has therefore worked following these principles for quite many years – hence they have harvested the fruits of this labour in 2015.
The Lafon style is generous, but still a lovely balance has been obtained in the 2015s – and the wines are quite delightful I must say.
The tasting notes for the 2015 whites from Lafon
First wine out – the generic Meursault village – coming from several terroirs within the Meursault appellation – more precisely En la Barre, En Luraule, Les Crotots, Le Clos de la Baronne. It offers a forward and generous bouquet – classic Lafon – with ample fruit and a nice citrus infused minerality. On the palate quite rich fruit, focused and with a good freshness. A good balanced effort for the vintage – will offer lovely drinking no doubt. Good+ (87 – 88p).
Next up sort of a signature wine for Lafon – the Meursault Clos de la Barre a vineyard located just outside the Lafon estate. This is – as always – quite a step up from the generic village – slightly reduced but showing the usual Lafon virtues. The bouquet is brimming with white and some yellow fruits – without being overly exotic. On the palate very good intensity and length for this level – no match for the magnificent 2014 though – but still a very balanced and delicious effort … really like the mid-palate energy. Very Good (88 – 90p).
Then to the Meursault Les Bouchères – a vineyard that has produced some very refined 2015s. This wine i produced fro two “sectors” one is the old Roulot plot and the other is a plot from the old Manuel estate. The nose offer lovely airy fruit – white peach, slight acacia flower – lovely citrus notes interlinked with the delicate minerality. On the palate fine intensity – a zen like weightless feel – a very refined Meursault – really adore this vineyard. Fine+ (91 – 93p).
Meursault La Goutte d’Or is a more obvious wine – yet still refined. The nose is brimming with rich fruit, brought forward by a nice filigree minerality. On the palate well constituted with a fine mid-palate fruit – structured by a nice mineral note offering a nice tension and energy. Fine+ (91 – 92p).
Next wine – the Meursault Les Porusots – a very expressive and rich wine, with a more predominant yellow fruit. One of the vineyards that has produced the rich and ripe styled 2015s. The nose offer plenty of yellow fruit, rich and on the more exotic notes. On the palate very generous and ripe – still fine energy and a quite nice balance. For my palate a bit over the top ripeness wise – others might feel differently. A Fine wine nevertheless (90 – 92p).
Then we come to Meursault Les Genevrières – one of the Lafon wines I taste rarely and a personal favorite, as I think the vibrant mineral style of this terroir is a lovely contrast to the generous style of the estate. The nose is brimming with mineral infused fruit – notes of white peach, pear, complex citrus notes – lemon and lime – slightly reductive on the nose. On the palate quite rich but very vibrant with the powerful and intense minerality providing fine structure and plenty of vibrant verve. Very Fine (93 – 94p).
Next a surprisingly focused Meursault Les Charmes – normally the forward and lush 1er cru in the lineup. As seen from other estates the Meursault Charmes vineyard seem to have done very well indeed in the 2015 vintage – perhaps because water stress have influenced other vineyards with a more shallow soil more. The Meursault Chames is a truly beautiful wine – rich effortless and very balanced. The nose offer plenty of mineral and citrus infused fruit – expressive – yet it seems very classic for this somewhat hot year. On the palate l?ovely intensity and focus – offering plenty of airy fruit – fine roasted walnut hints on the finish .. a delightful glass of Meursault. Very Fine – (93 – 94p).
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