Visit to Domaine Jean Chartron – tasting the 2019s from cask

Domaine Jean Chartron is one of the prominent, historic landowners in Puligny-Montrachet, having owned several of its holdings for more than 100 years.

Last month I had the pleasure of meeting Jean-Michel Chartron, who is now running the estate with his sister Anne-Laure Chartron Malassagne.

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Domaine Jean Chartron in more depth

Domaine Jean Chartron has a long historical background, having been established in 1859. It has a unique portfolio of vineyards that includes three famous clos: Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle, Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Caillerets, and Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers.

The estate, after problems with inheritance taxes in the 1980s and 1990s, has entered a more stable period under the leadership of Jean-Michel Chartron, and this has led to tremendous quality improvements over the past several years.

Domaine Chartron has a lovely portfolio of vineyards, and I have recently dived into this treasure.

Vineyard profiles of Chartron

• Vineyard Insight: Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret
• Terroir Insight: Domaine Chartron Clos de la Pucelle
• Terroir Insight: Domaine Chartron Clos du Cailleret
• Terroir Insight: Domaine Chartron, Chevalier-Montrachet

Tasting the 2019s at Domaine Chartron

The 2019 vintage is for me more lovable than 2018, although I was quite impressed with the Chartron ’18s, given the hot conditions.

The 2019s are also warmish (at least); some would argue that they are almost as hot as the 2018s. Yet the inherent freshness and charm of the 2019 vintage – along with the cloudberries and lingonberries in many wines – brings out a comforting appeal. Many of the white 2019s have terrific charm, and while sometimes hotly generous, even I tend to adore these wines.

Let’s face it: Cool vintages in Burgundy are not on the menu these days – sadly. But with the 2019s we will survive, I imagine.

To the tasting notes! You know the drill…

Tasting notes from July 9

Domaine Jean Chartron Bourgogne “Clos de la Combe Blanc” 2019

The Chartron Bourgogne “Clos de la Combe Blanc” (Bourgogne Côte d’Or) is a lively, charming wine, despite its long and confusing name. The vintage, with its generous character and the cool Nordic berries (in a warm context), does make this wine a lovely, charming aperitif choice. It could also work well with spicy food, as the sweeter notes in my view would go well with chili-infused dishes.

(Drink from 2020) – Good – (85-86p) – Tasted 09/07/2020

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Domaine Jean Chartron Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc 2019

This is fresher, with lovely tension; clearly a more food-oriented wine in less of an aperitif style. It has a lovely (for the vintage), cool freshness that gives it a more classic expression. While better than the one with the complicated name, somehow it does not fully embrace the 2019 vintage. Nonetheless well made!

(Drink from 2020) – Good – (85-86p) – Tasted Tasted 09/07/2020

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Domaine Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin 2019

The Rully Montmorin is showing very well, with its limestone character. It is rich, but there’s still a nice saline streak. Crisp and vivid – What’s not to like? – especially with some complementary summer food. (Goodness me, I must be hungry here at 08:00 in the morning!)

(Drink from 2020) – Good+ – (86-87p) – Tasted Tasted 09/07/2020

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Domaine Jean Chartron Santenay Blanc 2019

If you – like me – are suckers for the saline, then surely a white Santenay fits the bill. The minerality here is a bit on the denser side, yet with a spicy summer dish, I feel I’d appreciate the rich, expressive side of the 2019 vintage. Santenay does integrate and accommodate generosity very well.

(Drink from 2020) – Good+ – (86-87p) – Tasted 09/07/2020

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Domaine Jean Chartron Pernand-Vergelesses 2019

An interesting terroir, as the cool rear side of the Corton hill provides excellent conditions in a hot year such as 2019. Quite reduced (as normal), with vivid, fine acidity – classic Pernand with its citrus, grapey notes. This year there is even a slight cloudberry hint to charm us drinkers. It has fine structure and energy, and would be a good choice for a hearty lobster dish (maybe with just a little chili to spice the palate).

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (86-88p) – Tasted 09/07/2020

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