One of the highlights of my May/June 2018 trip was a tasting at a brand new and exiting estate – Maison and possibly later Domaine Marthe Henry Boillot in Meursault.
And when I say brand new – it’s as new as an estate can get … the labels are not yet fully designed or printed for that matter, and the 2017s I tasted from cask are the first wines produced from the estate in it’s current form.
Marthe Henry Boillot is the charming and confident mastermind behind the wines tasted – and she is making wine at her grandfathers old estate in Meursault – with grapes acquired from friends … in the estate cellars just opposite from the estate of Antoine Jobard in Rue du Leignon.
This is the kind of passion, talent and effort I admire and search for ..
A bit of facts about Marthe Henry Boillot
Marthe Henry Boillot was born in Paris, but she originates from a vigneron family in Bourgogne, where her grandfather, Pierre Boillot, had an estate in Meursault.
Marthe however grew up in Paris and completed her education as journalist and worked as such before she found or should I say discovered her passion for wine – and decided to return to her family roots in Meursault.
It was in 2013 she decided to focus on the world of wine – and now 5 years later she is on her way to complete the first vintage starring at her own estate in Meursault. Marthe is in addition currently working at Domaine Rougeot in Meursault to gain more experience in all aspects of the wine making, to be ready to continue to establish her own estate – and hopefully to take over some of the vineyards from the old Pierre Boillot estate.
Her grandfather, Pierre Boillot, passed away in 2004 and the estate was then closed down – but luckily the vineyards were kept in the family.
The old Pierre Boillot estate was not a large landowner, according to Clive Coates around 2.5 ha, but there were nevertheless still some very fine vineyards.
To get a head start Marthe is now buying grapes from friends .. and she has been lucky to get some high quality grapes from growers – even some that are getting certified organic … not a bad start to be honest.
The 2017s from Domaine Marthe Henry Boillot
The first vintage from Marthe Henry Boillot is 2017 – a beautiful and charming vintage – whith plenty of fruit and opportunities.
She has made 12 barrels of wine in the 2017 vintage – 7 different wines – 6 whites, and one red.
The wines are made without sulphur – i.e. vinification without sulphur but will mainly be bottled with sulphur. The wines are therefore what I will call low sulphur wines – protected by the sulphur but without having so much influence from the SO2.
The 2017s are charming, vivid and enjoyable, hence a fine year to start, and while good grapes will bring you a long way, it seems like Marthe have a true talent to unfold the elegant, airy and effortless qualities of the vintage.
Vinification without sulphur does seem to free the inner detail of the wines, and unfolds the juicy energy of the fruit – without having the slight compression of the mid-palate fruit … if this does give any meaning.
The wines here do offer a very airy fruit, natural and free, with an effortless balance and a lovely purity.
The tasting notes – Marthe Henry Boillot 2017s
Lets go to the tasting impression from the 2017s – a delightful start.
Marthe Henry Boillot, Aligote 2017
Aligote can be a beautiful grape if ripeness is sufficient, and vinification is made with considerable talent. The Aligote from Marthe Henry Boillot is fresh energetic and with an airy and ripe complexity. The nose offer lovely detail, nice minerality – and a lovely airy feel. On the palate intense with a cool fruit, lovely detail and a lovely balance. An enjoyable Aligote in the top end.
(Drink from 2019) – Good+ – (87 – 88p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Bourgogne Chardonnay 2017
The first of the Bourgogne Blancs come from a plot on the upper side of the Meursault village. This offer a lovely detailed fruit and plenty of intensity for this level. The fruit is airy with a lovely energy and purity. A truly lovely Bourgogne Blanc in the making.
(Drink from 2019) – Good – (86 – 87p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Bourgogne Monatine 2017
The Bourgogne Chardonnay La Monatine is from the area below the village terroirs La Monatine and Sous la Velle. This is in my view a step up in definition, and with a true Meursault character. The nose offer plenty of intensity – cool and effortless fruit with a tremendous energy and a vivid acidity. On the palate fine deep playful and earthy minerality, a tremendous Bourgogne Chardonnay that could easily be served as a village Meursault. A favourite in this vintage – very nuanced and detailed.
(Drink from 2019) – Good+++ – (87 – 88p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Saint-Romain 2017
The Saint Romain is another ballgame with the fermentation not quite completed yet. Again vivid and detailed – the vinification without sulphur is really showing well to be honest. Always enjoy a lovely Saint-Romain and this is most certainly a very competent wine. This will no doubt be popular.
(Drink from 2023) – Good+ – (86 – 88p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Meursault Sous La Velle 2017
Moving up to the Meursault village Sous La Velle, a tremendous village in the making. The fruit is deep and detailed – with a unique effortless balance and core – plenty of details and airy mid-palate fruit. It’s very elegant for this level with a certain serenity … this is drinking so well – top end Meursault in the making.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good+ – (90 – 92p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Meursault Poruzot 2017
This is one of the most elegant and refined Poruzots I have tasted as it intrigues my palate with the same effortless and refined feel I get from the lesser wines. The nose is brimming with charming and cool white orchard fruits – very airy and intense with plenty of mineral length in the finish. A magnificent Poruzot in my view
(Drink from 2027) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Marthe Henry Boillot, Pinot Noir 2017
The Bourgogne Rouge is made from 100% whole cluster and vinified without sulphur. It’s expressive and detailed – open and forward – plenty of red and forward red fruit with pomegranate and raspberries. A fine and very enjoyable effort.
(Drink from 2019) – Good+ – (86 – 88p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
I’m very impressed and feeling enthusiastic by the wines made by Marthe Henry Boillot, it is however still very very early. But in my view this is a tremendous talent … really looking forward to follow this new estate.