I must admit that Nicolas Groffier’s wines tempt me more and more. Since 2010 (at least), their quality has taken quite a leap. It is always very high, and Nicolas plays a very finely tuned instrument to get the results he does year after year.

The 2021 vintage is special here, as all the Groffier wines were made from 100% whole-cluster grapes; very unusual for the vintage, as the ripeness and health of the stems was quite poor in many places.

But things were different at Domaine Groffier, and for the first time it went for full whole-cluster vinification – and of all the wines!

The result is stunning, as the whole-cluster grapes do change – especially – the lower-level wines. They are silkier, more fragrant, and delicate, making them exciting vins de soif in essence.

So, to the notes! Wines are all bottled.

The 2021s from Domaine Robert Groffier

Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains 2021

The Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains is from the Morey side of the estate. With a higher share of spicy Gamay than in 2020 (30% as opposed to 10% in ’20), it is still a vivid, lively wine that’s light-footed. Again this year one of my favourites amongst the Passe-tout-grains I have tasted. A vin de soif, plain and simple.

(Drink from 2023) – Good – (86-87p) – Tasted 23/02/2023 –

---

Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne Rouge 2021

The Bourgogne Rouge is like the other wines: 100% whole cluster. It’s delicate and vivid, and has a slightly silky feel. Groffier did use some commercial yeast in the vinification due to the somewhat problematic grapes. Still, this is elegant, with lovely tension, and again a redoubtable vin de soif.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good+ – (87-88p) – Tasted 23/02/2023 –

---

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up. 

---