On my March 2017 trip to Burgundy I had the opportunity to visit Chantereves – one of my favorite micro negociants in Burgundy – always a pleasure and a treat to visit this small estate and the good people behind it.
Background – Chantereves, Savigny, Rheingau and Japan
I do hope that you know Chantereves by now .. but just to give some background to new readers: Chantereves is a small negociant located in a celler below a modern villa in Savigny-Les-Beaune.
The estate is founded and managed by two very talented winemakers … Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott, who as wife and husband have joined forces in producing a small selection of wines from grapes bought from different vineyard owners around Burgundy. First vintage was 2010.
Tomoko originates from Japan but has taken her wine education at the famous wine university in Geisenheim Germany. After finishing her education she worked as estate manager at the well known Rheingau estate, Friedrich Altenkirch. Guillame Bott is working as winemaker at the very well known Domaine Simon Bize also in Savigny-Les-Beaune, and previously he worked at Etienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet.
The Chantereves wines in 2016
Chantereves also suffered a great loss of grapes due to the 2016 April frost – really sad to see so many half empty cellars in Burgundy this year. I do hope the situation will be better in 2017 even though the frost has been taking it’s toll in Burgundy these weeks. The producers are better prepared in 2017, and while there have already been some damage, they have done a terrific job in trying to protect the vineyards so far.
Tomoko and Guillaume have tried hard to fill in the gaps in the cellar, but difficult to find larger quantities of the quality they need to make their very pure and transparent wines. So several of the regular cuvées are missing in the lineup this year – no Volnay and Pommard in 2016 sadly.
They have however succeeded in making some quite brilliant 2016s in my view, and while it’s very early to evaluate especially the whites – I would call it a both interesting and very fine vintage for this estate. The style of the vintage is well complimented by the juicy and vibrant style of Chantereves.
Comments and notes from the tasting of the 2016s – March 30th 2017
The white 2016s are still very early in the development, but reveal both fine balance and a lovely freshness and energy (a more classic vintage than the rich and slightly weighty 2015s). But they do seem to have a certain generosity in a nice and cool way.
It’s always hard to compare vintages – but seen together with the classic and vibrant 2014s – the 2016s whites seem to have a somewhat richer fruit, but beautifully matched by a lovely vibrant freshness and energy. This is a very interesting combination – well balanced – and will most likely provide great drinking.
I tasted the Bourgogne Blanc, the Saint-Romain and the Auxey-Duresses Blanc – and all showed lovely promise, but still way too early for me to comment in more detail … looking forward to taste these wines again later this year.
The red 2016s are however remarkably ready to taste and are showing just beautifully. I tasted the Bourgogne rouge – two different cuvées – that most likely will be blended in the end.
The red 2016s are like 2014 and 2015 made with 100% whole clusters, and this style is working very well indeed for Chantereves.
The Bourgogne rouge cuvée originating from the Puligny-Montrachet area is showing great energy and minerality – very pure and vibrant with a very floral and expressive nose – perhaps the best Bourgogne rouge from Chantereves so far. The second cuvée comes from Hautes Côtes de Nuits and a granite soil – it’s richer and offering a more generous mid-palate fruit – more broad minerality wise, and a bigger wine in a sense – and also a very juicy Bourgogne Rouge. I think I prefer the first cuvée currently, but in my view they will also compliment each other very well if blended to one cuvée of Bourgogne Rouge.
I do adore the Bourgogne Rouge from this house as they have so much vibrant energy and still offer maximum purity even at this level – Or should I just say: They drink so well!. I for one want some of these in the 2016 vintage.
Next up the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 2016 – a utterly beautiful wine – and in my view most likely the best wine ever produced by Chantereves. The nose is brimming with expressive predominantly red fruit – spiced with hints of peony rose, violets and cinnamon. On the palate very vibrant and energetic fruit – lovely acidity and detailed berries – hints of pomegranate. It’s very refined and airy offering a lovely length and verve. This is a Very Fine effort – get ready to buy some of these beauties.