Visit to Philippe Pacalet – Tasting the 2022s from Cask

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: I have followed Philippe Pacalet’s wines since his first vintage almost 20 years ago. I furthermore followed the wines he made at Domaine Prieure-Roch before he began his own endeavour.

I enjoy Pacalet’s wines, and they almost always provide (for me at least) essential hedonistic joy, despite the ultimate in complexity and detail sometimes being lower priorities.

Painting with a low-sulphur, whole-cluster brush, the wine will often end up on the impressionistic side, with its soul and emotional content as the main elements.

During my most recent visit, we had an interesting discussion about wine prices and the squeeze negociants are in with ever-increasing grape prices.

I don’t see any solution to increasing bottle prices … people like me will have to reduce Burgundy consumption and substitute with wines from other, new areas where one finds more bang for the buck.

But still, I love my Burgundies – love them. If not exactly made specifically for me, they do suit my palate very well.

The Pacalet 2022s are richer and more concentrated than the slightly more fragile and cool ’21s. And some are well structured, with quite a tannic backbone (more about this below).

While there are ’22s here that are on the intense side structure-wise, others have found a lovely balance. The Vosne-Romanee and Flagey-Echezeaux wines really hit the bull’s-eye this.

Quite a few vignerons are mildly worried that the 2022s will close down once they are bottled; some mention similarities to 2005. These are men of great experience, so one should listen, although I find the structure different in 2022, coming from intensity and tannins rather than from acidity.

We shall see. But the concern has hereby been duly noted.

The notes

As mentioned about Pacalet’s wines, they are not about outright complexity, but rather about pleasure and energy. So follow your heart!

Philippe Pacalet Ladoix-Serrigny 2022

Ladoix is becoming a go-to appellation for top-end vins de soif. They have a lovely mineral note and are somewhat cool – a good starting point. The 2022 Pacalet is offering generous fruit and surprising complexity; vivid red fruit and a good backbone. I like this wine.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023

Philippe Pacalet Nuits-Saints-Georges 2022

The Nuits-Saint-Georges from Bas du Combe has a good mineral note, but is currently a bit brisk on the tannins. Not really revealing itself at the moment, the bouquet is nonetheless showing nice energy. We’ll see if the palate ultimately unfolds.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023 –

Philippe Pacalet Pommard 2021

The Pommard village is showing more complexity. It has lively intensity and fine energy. A surprisingly seductive Pommard that’s really showing well.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023 –

Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 2022

The Gevrey village is a large cuvée that always offers fine hedonistic qualities. The nose is classic Pacalet: red fruit with darker forest berries, spiced with a hint of cinnamon and allspice. Lovely hedonistic qualities with excellent energy and concentration for this level, especially from such a big cuvée.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023 –

Philippe Pacalet Pommard Charmoix 2022

The Pommard Charmoix is rich and lively, again with some quite prominent tannins that will need time to integrate. I am a bit puzzled about the apparent differences in the ripeness of the tannins in the ’22s here; maybe I am mistaken.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Good (89p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023

Philippe Pacalet Pommard Epenots 2022

The Epenots is richer and deeper, and has ripe, velvety tannins. It’s a big Pommard (it is an Epenots), and quite elegant. Will I ever love this terroir? Perhaps not; not even in the hands of Philippe Pacalet.

(Drink from 2034) – Fine+ (91p) – tasted from cask 06/07/2023 –

• Visit to Philippe Pacalet – Tasting the 2022s from Cask
  I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: I have followed Philippe Pacalet’s wines since his first vintage almost 20 years ago. I furthermore followed the wines he made at Domaine Prieure-Roch before he began his own endeavour. I enjoy Pacalet’s wines, and they almost always provide (for me at least) essential hedonistic joy, despite ...
• Visit to Philippe Pacalet – Tasting the 2021s from Cask
  I have followed Philippe Pacalet’s wines since his first vintage almost 20 years ago. I furthermore followed the wines he made at Domaine Prieure-Roch before he began his own endeavour. I enjoy Pacalet’s wines, and they almost always provide – for me at least – an essential hedonistic joy, despite the ultimate in complexity and detail ...
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