Visit to Domaine Y. Clerget – Tasting the Red 2020s

I have followed Thibaud Clerget since his start with the 2015 vintage, and have seen a gradual and continual improvement in the quality and precision of his wines.

It’s always a treat to visit this estate, and it has become a benchmark for me in evaluating the quality of each vintage.

With the 2020s now in the glass, I find that Thibaud Clerget has raised the quality an additional notch or two, showing me what could well be the best wines he’s ever produced.

Improvements lead to even higher quality

While the grapes in hot years are often riper, the vinification is not necessarily easier, as maintaining lightness and coolness during harvest and vinification requires experience.

I was initially therefore slightly surprised with the fine results from Thibaud Clerget in his first vintage, 2015. Yes, some of the wines were a bit on the hot side, but in general, the balance was beautifully preserved.

Tasting the 2016s and 2017s revealed real improvements compared with the ’15s. These wines showed the potential of this fine estate, and also Thibaud’s talent.

Then came the 2018s, and despite the fact that 2018 was hotter than 2015, his ’18 wines were vivid and fresh, showing finer details and energy. What a result!

The 2019s had even more to offer: an inherent energy and depth, and complexity that ran through the wines as a strong source of energy and hedonistic pleasure. Thibaud cherished this quality and fully expressed it in his ’19s.

The 2020s are, however, a real surprise – as at many other estates – with their coolness and classical stance. The vintage was the perfect opportunity for Thibaud to express his terroirs.

Sometimes we don’t know what we are missing. But with the 2020s from Thibaud Clerget in the glass, we do know, and we don’t want to miss them.

I’ll evaluate Thibaud Clerget’s whites in a separate article so, on to the reds!

The 2020 reds from Domaine Y. Clerget, tasted on January 26

The first thing one notices is the cool, inherent expression of energy.

Domaine Y. Clerget Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020

The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a delight. Clear and brilliant, it shows pure, coolish red and dark fruit. It’s saline, with an almost crystalline expression; this is drinking very well, and showing both character and hedonism.

(Drink from 2023) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 26/01/2022 –

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Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 2020

The Volnay is equally brilliant, with classic Volnay notes and a rich, intense palate. The coolish style of the 2020s and the fine acidity really make this a treat. It has lovely, sweet, ripe fruit, slight reduction, and some Asian spices on the nose exciting the bouquet.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 26/01/2022 –

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Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle 2020

The Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle is as always a step up in intensity and energy. His last cuvee of the vintage, it was harvested on August 28, and although there’s only 20% new oak, a bit of darkness in the fruit hints that perhaps a slightly earlier harvest would have been optimal. Still a nice wine though.

(Drink from 2030) – Fine (91p) – Tasted 26/01/2022 –

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