Burgundy Day 3 …. a taste of 2014 and more 2013s

The third day on my trip to Burgundy included four tastings .. Philippe Pacalet, Domaine des Croix, Maison Camille Giroud and lastly Domaine Berthaut in Fixin.

A large selection of wines were tasted … approaching my maximum limit for tastings during one day … a lovely day nevertheless.

Here are some initial impressions .. tasting notes will follow.

Philippe Pacalet – expressive 2014s

First out was Philippe Pacalet where I tasted a large selection of 2014s with Johan Cola, who is Philippe Pacalet right hand man both in the cellar and in the vineyards.

Photo: Johan Cola from Maison Philippe Pacalet

The 2014s were all well through malo, and was showing beautifully at this stage. Especially the reds were very expressive offering a lovely range off red fruits. The wines are surprisingly ready to taste at this stage … and will no doubt provide excellent drinking.

The whites tasted showed very well, although they are a bit more difficult to evaluate at this stage. I do however feel that these are the best whites I have tasted so far from Pacalet … at least given the quality of the vintage.

Pacalet has expanded the production of reds in 2014 with a substantial increase in the volume of Gevrey village .. much needed given the expected drinkability of the 2014s.

Domaine des Croix – delightful 2014s in the making

Next stop down the road .. almost literally .. was Domaine des Croix .. made by David Croix, the very talented winemaker from Camille Giroud.

The Domaine des Croix estate was founded 10 years ago by David and a group of investors. The first vintage was 2005 and the domaine mainly focus on reds from Cote de Beaune and Corton.

Photo: David Croix

I have been a big fan of David Croix since he in the 2010 vintage where he made some gorgeous red Cortons at Camille Giroud.

I was therefore delighted that I had the opportunity to visit both Domaine de Croix and Camille Giroud on this trip.

Tasting the 2014s from Domaine des Croix confirmed my trust in Davids abilities as a winemaker. All the 2014s tasted were showing well and really offered a fine representation of the different terroirs. I especially enjoyed the Beaune Greves and the two Corton’s … but also the other wines showed very fine promise … will be exiting to follow these wines when the cuvees are assembled.

I tend to get more and more impressed by the different Beaune wines I taste from the new producers that are promoting and rediscovering great vineyards like Beaune Greves.

Camille Giroud – tasting of the 2013 vintage

Next stop was Camille Giroud to taste the 2013s also with David Croix. The 2013s were mostly prepared for bottling and on tank, so not necessarily the best time to taste.

It was however possible to get a good impression of the vintage from Camille Giroud, and here I was most impressed by the wines from the Gevrey Chambertin appellation – no Cortons tasted.

The Laveaux Saint Jacques was delightful with a gorgeous sweet midplatate fruit and the two big boys – Charmes-Chambertin and Le Chambertin – are very fine efforts for the vintage. Seems like the Gevrey appellation has done especially well in the 2013 vintage.

Domaine Berthaut in Fixin .. with a promising new winemaker

Amélie Berthaut made her first vintage in 2013 .. and not only has she taken over the wine making at the family estate in Fixin. She has also included some vineyards from her mothers estate in Vosne-Romanee (Domaine Francois Gerbet) – and so far she makes wines from plots of Vosne village, Les Petits Monts and Echezeaux from the Gerbet side of the family.

Photo: Amélie Berthaut

In my view Amélie has made great progress already in her first vintage … and the wines from the Berthaut estate have become more approachable and refined with the new style introduced by Amélie. The wines are still pure and focused but Amélie has softened the style, and has in the process added some complexity and delicasy.

I was equally impressed by the Gevrey and the Vosne wines … It will be very exiting to follow this young winemaker as she find and refines her new style and get the vineyards into shape. I think she has the ambition and the talent to make great wines.