First impressions of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 2019s

COVID-19 Day 7 in the Winehog burrow in Denmark: I’m working pretty normally, and the situation is more a mental challenge so far, not yet really imposing a true change in lifestyle. In other words, I should not complain.

And I do have the 2018 and adorable 2019 Burgundies to talk about. There are important and very joyful wines on the way to market after elevage.

This article features the March tasting at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, where the 2018s had just been bottled and therefore were not tasted. The 2019 vintage was in the glass.

Or to be more precise, because I respect these wines and a celebration is in order, we had the great pleasure of tasting the heavenly and vivid 2019s, perhaps best wines I have ever tasted from de Vogüé.

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The brilliance of the de Vogüé 2019s

Let me say this up front: Malolactic fermentation has not started in the cellar-cool 2019s, so it is very early; very early indeed.

If you feel that tasting before malo is impossible, I understand, and you probably shouldn’t waste your time reading my encomium on these wines.

That being said, the level of malic acid is quite low in the 2019 vintage – as it was with the 2015s – and thus even before malolactic fermentation the wines are unusually approachable.

The 2018 vintage here was not as approachable, and was in fact very difficult to taste and judge last summer. I actually forewent commenting on the wines based on that early tasting, as it would not have been fair to de Vogüé or the wines.

But the 2019s … heavenly drops!

De Vogüé knows it as well

It’s always a delight to visit Jean-Luc Pepin at de Vogüé and taste the wines with winemaker François Millet. Knowing him quite well from many years of tastings, I could see the smile on his face and hear the tone in his voice, letting me know that something special was awaiting in the chilled room above the cellar.

I have tasted the de Vogüé wines almost every year for 20 years, and never before have I experienced such vivid and energetic wines. If all continues as it has started, we are in for a line-up of very emotional Burgundies.

The 2019s from de Vogüé: initial impressions

The 2019s are fresh, vivid and very energetic wines. They are also big wines in the sense that all are around 14% alcohol. However, the alcohol is not noticeable, and coupled with the vibrant energy, it gives tremendously fresh and intense wines.

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