Visit to Domaine Pierre Labet – tasting the 2019s

The wines from Domaine Pierre Labet are often somewhat overlooked, overshadowed by the wines Labet makes at Chateau de la Tour, the top brand of his group.

About Domaine Pierre Labet

Chateau de la Tour is renowned for making some of the very best wines from the Clos de Vougeot. Yet François Labet, its owner and manager, is making tremendous wines from his other family estate, Domaine Pierre Labet, which has large vineyard holdings scattered among Burgundy’s appellations. Furthermore, Edouard Labet has joined his father and is now a part of the group.

The Labet portfolio includes some lesser-known terroirs located on the outskirts of certain appellations, hence often offering a different take on how terroirs express themselves.

Examples are Beaune Clos du Dessus de Marconnets, a village vineyard located at the northern end of the Beaune appellation at the very top of the slope. François produces both a lovely white and a charming red from this rather remote Beaune terroir.

In Meursault, Labet owns a large plot in the village terroir Les Tillets – located at the very top of Meursault above Les Narvaux. A lieu-dit producing mineral-driven Meursaults that appeal to hard-core terroir aficionados (like me), when combined with Domaine Labet’s delicate, refined style, it offers a lovely Meursault experience.

So what could appear to be a “middle-of-the-road” addendum to the Clos de Vougeot’s top wines is actually an exciting estate with lovely wines from interesting terroirs. They should not be missed.

As a bonus, the estate is working organically and, from 2015, even biodynamically. This is a serious operation, and its work translates into lovely, superbly well made wines.

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Tasting notes for the white 2019s from Domaine Pierre Labet

The fact that 2019 was a hot year is of course partly evident in the wines. François Labet is, however, a sure-handed producer, and has been able to capture the charming side of the ’19s.

Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2019

The Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes is a quite intensely structured wine for its level, with a good infusion of 2019 freshness. A lively glass, quite rich and supple on the palate. it almost leaves you a bit puzzled with its balance between generosity and freshness.

(Drink From 2021) – Above Average – tasted 12/02/2021

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Domaine Pierre Labet Beaune Clos du Dessus de Marconnets 2019

I adore a good white Beaune – so also the 2019 edition of the Clos du Dessus de Marconnets. With its freshness (for the vintage), it has all the Beaune we need to get a lively wine on the table. It’s quite harmonious, with a lovely creamy texture and fine acidity and freshness for such a generous year. There’s good balance in this slightly opulent white Beaune, with citric notes on the finish.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (89-90p) – tasted 12/02/2021 –

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Domaine Pierre Labet Meursault Tillets 2019

The Meursault Tillets is the top vineyard of the Labet whites, located high on the slope above Les Narvaux. I always enjoy a good Tillets, and this is a vivid, lively Meursault, delicate, energetic, vivacious and mineral. It is a treat rivalling quite a few Meursault lieux-dits in 2019. Well done!

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (90p) – tasted 12/02/2021 –

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Tasting notes for the red 2019s from Domaine Pierre Labet

The 2019 reds from Labet have better balance and freshness than the 2018s. Yes, it’s a warm year, but with more charm. The ’19s have intensity, but they are not dense.

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Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2019

The red Burgundy is quite delightful; rich for the level, generous, and with a juicy, almost velvety feel for a generic Bourgogne. It’s a wine for drinking – given a few years in the cellar. There is good balance between generosity and freshness.

(Drink From 2022) – Good – tasted 12/02/2021

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Domaine Pierre Labet Beaune Clos du Dessus de Marconnets 2019

The Clos du Dessus de Marconnets from the village vineyard high on the slope is quite a success in 2019. It’s very vivid, with red and even red-orange fruit, including Scandinavian cloudberries. It really does have gorgeous fruit, as well as fine complexity, delicate refinement, and delightful salinity.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted 12/02/2021 –

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Domaine Pierre Labet Beaune Aux Coucherias 2019

This 1er cru is a step up in concentration and velvety lushness (slightly hotter also). It has nice floral intensity, coming from a steep vineyard at the top of the slope above Beaune Aux Cras. The nose is forward and juicy, with red and dark fruit, and good drive. This is actually rather seductive. The fruit is quite deep fruit and intense, with some vivid Scandinavian cloudberries giving it a decadent touch. An interesting, hedonistic Beaune.

(Drink From 2027) – Fine (89-90p) – tasted 12/02/2021

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Domaine Pierre Labet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2019

The Gevrey Vieilles Vignes is the odd man out in Cote de Beaune this line-up, but actually shines beautifully in this vintage. Drinkability springs instantly to mind, although it is perhaps a bit too controlled to be called a vin de soif. Still, it definitely has a delightful joie de vivre, which in these times requires quite some quality. It’s almost silky or creamy, with beautiful red fruit – raspberries and red cherries with a Scandinavian flick.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good+ (89-90p) – tasted 12/02/2021 –

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The Clos Vougeots

The tasting notes on the three Clos Vougeots of Chateau de la Tour are found in a separate article here.