I have followed Philippe Pacalet’s wines since his first vintage almost 20 years ago. I furthermore followed the wines he made at Domaine Prieure-Roch before he began on his own.
I enjoy Pacalet’s wines, and they almost always provide – for me at least – an essential hedonistic joy, despite the complexity and detail sometimes coming as lower priorities.
This is how it is: one can rarely have both. And painting with a low-sulphur, whole-cluster brush, the wine will often end up on the impressionistic side, with its soul and emotional side as the main elements.
So in essence I need some Pacalet for my hedonistic pleasure, without regrets, and without keeping the wines in the cellar for 20 years. They serve this purpose and have served me well over the years.
In Pacalet’s range, it’s often the usual suspects that give the greatest hedonistic pleasure: wines like his Nuits-Saint-Georges and Nuits-Saint-Georges 1ers crus should be high on the hedonistic list.
As Burgundy prices rise inexorably, one should definitely go all out for hedonism, and find the wines with the most energy, best phenolic ripeness, and greatest balance. As we say: You deserve it!
So follow your heart – and my suggestions!
Philippe Pacalet Pommard 2020
The Pommard village is an overlooked wine, including in 2020. It has good intensity and energy, yet the darkish fruit is not really firing on all cylinders. I always think I should buy the Pommard, yet I don’t. Maybe finally in 2020?
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021 –
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Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 2020
The Gevrey village is a large cuvée, but offers fine hedonistic qualities. It’s intense and rather concentrated, and while not of the greatest complexity, there is enough to give a lot of pleasure during its early years. The nose is classic Pacalet: red fruit with darker forest berries, spiced with a hint of cinnamon and allspice. Good weight and energy, and I do like it for what it is.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021 –
Philippe Pacalet Ladoix-Serrigny 2020
The Ladoix is an exciting newer wine in the Pacalet portfolio. It’s a more and more popular appellation, and the wine shows good oompf for this level. Red and dark fruit combine with lovely acidity and good liveliness. It is quite dark in colour, but then again, the 2020s as a whole are relatively dark.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted from cask 08/16/2021
Philippe Pacalet Nuits-Saints-Georges 2020
The Nuits-Saint-Georges is always a Pacalet treat. The bouquet is brimming with energy and red/dark berries. It has a vivid iron note, yet is fresh and forward for a NSG. This is working very well indeed – as in most years.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (89-90p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021 –
Philippe Pacalet Vosne-Romanée 2020
The Vosne-Romanée village is rich and spicy, with hints of cinnamon and violet, and whiffs of curry and lilac. The mid-palate fruit is rich and intense with lovely liveliness and the delightful coolness of the vintage. Hot, yet not. A good, but also quite strange, year!
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (90p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021 –
Philippe Pacalet Aloxe-Corton 1er cru 2020
The Aloxe-Corton is showing fine energy and intensity. The red and dark fruit is spiced with notes of cinnamon and white pepper. On the palate, there is good acidity as well as lively, vibrant fruit. This is drinking well.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88-90p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021
Philippe Pacalet Ladoix-Serrigny Joueuses 2020
Joueuses, Joueuses – this vineyard has a very charming name and style, and gives floral, vivid wines from its spot below the Corton hill on the Ladoix slope. It’s musky, with notes of sandalwood and peony; delicate, very mineral, and even sensual. A wine to experience and enjoy!
(Drink from 2029) – Fine (91p) – tasted from cask 08/06/2021 –
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