Visit to Domaine Boigey Freres – Tasting the 2022s

Domaine Boigey Freres is one of the new estates in Vosne-Romanée, and after a cautious start, the Boigey brothers are picking up momentum.

The 2022s are a step up for the domaine in Vosne’s ranks, and from simply being on the map, these wines are now getting seriously interesting. They have always been well executed, pure, and clean, but levels and layers of complexity have been added with the ’22s.

These are wines that should be considered by all that love good Vosne wines. I am certainly excited; well done to the Boigey brothers. And now on the Vin d’émotion list for Vosne-Romanée.

Guillaume and Olivier run the estate, with vineyards that are gradually being taken back as leases expire. Production in 2022 was 9,000 bottles, but when the full Suchots plot is back (0.7 hectare) then production will climb. This year, a small plot of Echezeaux Les Poulaillères (0.12 ha) will be added.

The domaine started with a nice portfolio of vineyards, and will eventually – when all parcels are recovered – have a beautiful selection of appellations.

Background

Domaine Boigey Freres originates from one of the older families in Vosne. It was previously known as Domaine Albert Noirot.

In their first years, 2019 and 2020, the brothers produced just three wines: Bourgogne Rouge, Vosne-Romanée Les Jachees, and Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes. In 2021, Vosne Les Suchots and Nuits-Saint-Georges Boudots were added to the portfolio. Soon, the plot of Echezeaux will be included!

The domaine is off to a good start. Its wines are sound and well made, with nice terroir expression. If the start was cautious and did not pull out all the stops, it was because the bothers were mapping their route stylistically. In 2020, there was a lift in concentration, and in 2021, I saw further progress – quite impressive.

But now we have 2022 in the glass, and what a treat! The ugly duckling has become a beautiful swan.

Domaine Boigey Freres Bourgogne 2022

From the regional vineyard Le Rochere, located below the main RD974, this is a true treat in 2022. It’s elegant and expressive, with the openly knit style of the vintage. There are, as usual, fine notes of griottes and hints of raspberries, and even some Vosne spice to add to the complexity. The 2022 has more energy and, especially, a hedonistic charm. This is really enjoyable.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (87-88p) – Tasted 15/06/2023 from CASK –

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