Théo Dancer is one of the new stars of Burgundy. His father Vincent enjoyed increasing popularity, but when Théo took over the estate in 2020 there was a change of gears in the implementation of new viticultural and vinification choices.
Théo is very young, 23; but he is a strong and confident guy who has a clear idea of what he wants and an aggressive plan to expand the domaine structure with negoce wines and sub-domaines.
The estate structure
Théo Dancer’s production can be split into the following categories:
- Domaine Vincent Dancer – white domaine wines
- Domaine Vincent Dancer – red domaine wines (this article)
- Théo Dancer Roc Breia – chardonnay and pinot noir made from vines owned partly by the Dancers, but with outside investors
- Théo Dancer negociant – wine from other, purchased grapes, including Savagnin and Grenache
So let’s taste the ’22 domaine reds.
Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Rouge 2022
The Bourgogne rouge from Theo Dancer is a new wine in the Winehog’s glass. It’s a delightful, vivid glass with plenty of energy. This is delicate and quite intense, and thankfully not too extracted for the vintage. A summer vin de soif!
(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (87-88p) –
Vincent Dancer Pommard Les Perrieres 2022
The Pommard Perrieres uses more whole clusters, giving it a generous, open-minded soul. The vintage supports a wine like this well, with its broad mid-palate fruit and hints of rose petals shining through the red fruit. Lovely juice!
(Drink From 2024) – Very Good – (90p) –
Vincent Dancer Beaune 1er Cru Les Montrevenots 2022
Quite a step up in concentration from the Pommard, this is nevertheless still a relatively light-footed wine. I adore white wine producers’ red wines – when they don’t try too hard. This is lively, airy, vivid, clean, and pure: a true vin de soif. Red fruit and rose petals do sweeten the deal; I love this.
(Drink From 2026) – Very Good – (88p)
Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2022
An additional step up in concentration and complexity, this is a true red Chassagne, with delicate tannins and a floral, complex nose. It will need some time before the complexity reveals itself fully. But what the devil; this will do. The whole-cluster fruit is vivid, open, and delicate, with delightful depth.
(Drink From 2028) – Fine – (91-92p) –
Vincent Dancer Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2022
The top red here is the Pommard Pezerolles. While it is bigger, tighter, and more intense than the Morgeot, is it better? I’m not sure. It’s destemmed, with more substantial tannins, and needs more time. It has delicate mid-palate fruit, and will reveal added complexity as it matures.
(Drink From 2033) – Fine – (91p) –
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