I had not tasted Chantereves’ wines for a couple of years, and I was therefore anxious to have a go at the magnificent 2019 vintage.
Sadly, COVID issues sent the plans down the drain, and in the end I had to settle for an early look at the 2020s, along with a taste of three ’19s.
The 2020s are very promising, with their “cool” style and sulphur-free vinification (they will eventually see a very low sulphuring just before bottling). Chantereves has lowered its sulphur usage considerably – from around 59 mg/L total SO2 in 2012 to 20 mg/L in 2017/2018, and even further to 13 mg/L in 2019 (numbers for Bourgogne Rouge). This has resulted in very precise and delicate wines, while still preventing things from getting out of hand in a hippie-style way.
The 2019s I tasted were perhaps even better. Here they are:
First up was Chantereves Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2019. Pardon my Danish, but this came across as a very vivid and lively wine. With 2019’s sensual lushness, the low SO2 level and vivacious, tense midpalate fruit reminded my why I love the style of these wines. It showed pure red fruits – very pure – and is the best generic Bourgogne I have tasted from this estate. Bravo!
(Drink from 2021) – Good – (86-87p) – Tasted 12/03/2021
Next up, a wine from my new home turf: Chantereves Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Tuyaux 2019. The vines are located between Aux Athées and Les Herbues (the future grand cru!!), with Aux Croix Rouges squeezed in between. This is a vivid, quite refined terroir, lightly stony, and in 2019 vivacious and delicate. Delightful freshness – this is rock ‘n’ roll! – and a vin de soif if there ever was one. Again, the purity and free style, without flabbiness or even bio-flabbiness, shows that it can be done!
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 15/03/2021
Last, but not least: Chantereves Aloxe-Corton Les Paulands 2019 is a 1er cru from the Corton appellation. It is in a corner towards Ladoix, just above Les Valoziéres and below the Paulands part of Corton – i.e. both 1er cru and grand cru. This is remarkably refined and airy, pure and focused, yet still with the energy kick of the 2019 vintage. Although amazingly fresh, this is not necessarily the lightest ballet dancer on the Corton hill. Yet so well done; a joy to enjoy, and a hedonistic wine fair and square.
(Drink from 2028) – Fine – (91-92p) – Tasted 15/03/2021