Blessed by Les Clos

Chablis and the Winehog was never a love story, as I apparently got off on the wrong foot when I entered the northern provinces of Burgundy. I have jokingly suggested that Chablis, in fact, is the southern section of Alsace … but today I know more and have more respect.

To correct my mistake from the start, I decided to buy some bottles of Raveneau every year to see if I could learn to really enjoy Chablis. First wines I bought were Ravenenau Valmur 1991 … a chalky monster. I continued a few years … but stopped around 1997 … presumably due to lack of cash and a bigger focus on the core of Burgundy.

I must say that Chablis has grown on me, and whether it is my palate or global warming that has changed my appreciation. I don’t know.

Currently, I still have two favourites … Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat… and this works well, especially with seafood. I do, however, also like William Fevre and … in fact the global warming is tipping the scale in favour of Chablis as overripeness is starting to become a problem in Burgundy.

But do I really love and adore the wines from Chablis … no … not so far … but Thursday, April 16, 2026 was about to change this.

Vincent Dauvissat Les Clos 1989

The Vincent Dauvissat Les Clos 1989 was a half bottle … 0.375ml … of intense complexity. Starting out with full-blown mature Chablis acidity and notes of acacia with quite a lot of Coffee notes. Classic big and burly with the powerful intensity of the 1989 vintage taking charge and the winehog by the wing. Almost too powerful in the beginning, it started to add layers and layers of complexity with the acidity and coffee beans integration into the midplate, adding even more complexity. Notes of chalky base, rich white and yellow floral notes … hazelnuts, candied fruit and almonds exploding in the mouth … what a complexity and length equite easily surpassing other Chablis I have tasted. Greatness … wow

(Drink from Now) – Extraordinary – (97 – 98p) –

The Winehog now has to admit that Chablis can produce great wines … very great wines indeed.

I am convinced and reformed!