Bouchard Père et Fils is quietly transforming the old Beaune estate to a part of Domaine Artemis under Frédéric Engerer.
Some red vineyards have already been moved to Domaine d’Eugénie … Bonnes Mares, Chambertin and Gevrey Cazetiers to mention some …
It has long been clear to me that the quality and hedonism have been somewhat lacking in the Bouchard wines … clearly, worse with the reds.
It seems that the whites are on the right path with the implementation of Biodynamic viticulture, as this has increased the hedonistic energy level in the whites.
Is this enough to continue with the current development of the style? Perhaps for the whites, but the reds, while better than before, still face issues of what I would call lack of energy and some oak dosage concerns in the 2023s reds that make me wonder.
The 2023 vintage does however have quite a dose of energy and the whites are especially shining well. Still, we have to say … reds at Bouchard do not necessarily produce the most extroverted and flamboyant wines – except the Corton perhaps, that always seem to shine.
But – Let’s go and taste the 2023 whites from Bouchard and for an energetic spark of the vintage kick some extra life into the Bouchard wines.
The white 2023 from Bouchard Père et Fils
Tasted in Beaune on November 15th 2024.
Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Clos Saint Landry 2023
The Clos Saint Landry is normally a treat with lovely juicy and vivid fruit. It’s generous and rich with ample fruit that suits most rich fish dishes. It’s not really a shellfish wine, but Turbot is in the best hands of a Landry. It has this creamy note like other big white Beaunes … delightful.
(Drink From 2029) – Very Good – (90-91p) – 
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Clous 2023
The Meursault les Clous has always been a mystery to me as I find the tone of the fruit a bit rough or even unclean. The latest vintages and perhaps the change to biodynamics are helping. Not a great Meursault … but nice.
(Drink From 2029) – Very Good – (89-90p)
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Charmes 2023
The Meursault Charmes is a beauty in 2023 with its generous fruit and expressive, silky feel. Charmes can be very sexy and should not be undervalued. Love this wine with its generosity and sensual feel … rich and vivid.
(Drink From 2029) – Fine – (92-93p) – 
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Genevrières 2023
The Genevrières is a true treat … delicate and effortless … Genevrières shows very well indeed in 2023. I adore the delicacy and refinement … the vivid style of the 2013 vintage … it is an adorable wine. Love the lively fruit and the fennel touch …
(Drink From 2033) – Very Fine – (94p) –
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Perrières 2023
The Meursault Perrières is good, but not really a match for the big four. This sets the Bouchard Perrières in relief, as the Coche-Dury can battle some of the truly big whites. This being said, the Perrières is improving as Biodynamic viticulture is improving the definition and effortlessness. Pure and vivid but lacking some intensity and oomph.
(Drink From 2035) – Very Fine – (94p) –
Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2023
The Corton-Charlemagne could well be called wine of the vintage at Bouchard …. and tasting old Charlemagnes confirms the true greatness of this terroir. Hot vintages and Charlie can be magic and the firmness of the 2023 outshines the two Chevaliers to a large extent as the cool structure of the Corton hill really shines… Grilled Lobster with white truffles …. Details on the Corton-Charlemagne is in this Winehog article.
(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding – (95-96p) – 
Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier Montrachet 2023
The regular Chevalier only has one issue … the fact that it has a vastly superior big brother Cabotte. The regular Chevalier is more openly knit and more accessible than the bigger wines. It’s less precise and lacks true definition. This makes the wine feel richer and softer around the edges in a hot year like 2023 (and yes, it is a somewhat hot year). Alone, it is a great classic Chevalier, but it’s not a great idea to serve it with Cabotte. Details on the Chevalier-Montrachet is in this Winehog article.
(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding – (95p) –
Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier Montrachet Cabotte 2023
Cabbotte is bigger and better than the regular Chevalier … or rather, a lot bigger, and is creating a fine link with the Montrachet. It’s an interesting wine that can suit and tame all dishes. It has definition and detail that unfolds with the food in a different way than the lesser terroirs … and can sometimes bring true magic … like a Montrachet. Make no mistake: it does not match the Montrachet, but I can easily make do with a Cabottte. Details on the Chevalier-Montrachet Cabotte is in this Winehog article.
(Drink From 2037) – Outstanding – (96p) –
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