During the last couple of weeks, I have discovered three domaines new to me, each with an exciting background and creation story.
This just goes to show that estates in Burgundy are going through a never-ending process of change, often benefitting you as a wine drinker. There are many exciting, hidden gems in Burgundy that rely on hard work, with very little marketing and fancy talk,
Domaine des Clos – formed by history
Domaine des Clos has its origin in the Bichot family and estate in Beaune, as Grégoire Bichot started the domaine in 1995.
It’s located in the heart of Nuits-Saint-Georges, and includes six hectares of vineyards spread among the municipalities of Beaune, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Chablis in the Yonne.
The vineyards sort of relate to Bichot history, with some around Beaune and others in Nuits-Saint-Georges around the Chateau Gris estate.
When he took over the cultivation of these vineyards, Grégoire Bichot had only one philosophy: to prohibit the use of any herbicide or pesticide in order to respect the environment and the Jurassic soils from which come the finesse of pinot noir and chardonnay.
Style-wise, we also find a rather refined Beaune note rather than a more rustic Nuits-Saint-Georges character – an interesting combination for the matured and classical drinker. Perhaps less so for the vin de soif kids on the block…
I tasted the 2020s at Domaine des Clos, a somewhat early sample. However, the 2020s have some evident qualities (see the article about the 2019s and the 2020s here).
Let’s go to the notes!
Domaine des Clos Chorey-les-Beaune 2020
First up is the Chorey-les-Beaune, which is rather forwardly fruity, showing raspberries and a juicy character, with hints of strawberries. Malolactic fermentation is not yet completed in this beautiful old cellar. This is a lovely wine, with fine potential; another Chorey showing its positive side. It’s a good wine for medium-term drinking, although a rating at this point in its development would be premature.
Domaine des Clos Beaune Les Bons Feures Vieilles Vignes 2020
The next wine is – to me at least – a special cuvee made from the plot Beaune Les Bons Feuvres. The vines are located on the Pommard side of Beaune close to the roundabout separating the roads to Meursault and Pommard. It is made from a 0.36-ha plot planted in 1926: Vieilles Vignes is justified. The nose of the 2020 is brimming with lively, cooler raspberries – deep and vivacious. The fruit is profound and and almost silky, with lovely, sweet, old-vine energy. This is delightful, and a special wine. A true gem.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 17/02/2021 –
Domaine des Clos Beaune Avaux 1er cru 2020
The Avaux is a bigger wine, and has a more floral structure and deeper, darker fruit. The vines are not young – dating from 1956 – but they do perhaps lack a bit of the silky old-wine generosity of the 1926 VV. This does, however, have a fine, light-footed structure. Still, I prefer the older girl…
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 17/02/2021
Domaine des Clos Beaune Les Greves 2020
Quite a step up to the Beaune Greves. Gorgeous red and dark fruits, including variations of cherries and wild strawberries. This has a deep, profound note of fruit that appeals to me, as a good Beaune always will. It’s not a flashy wine, but a genuine Beaune with lovely depth and complexity that will age well.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ – (91p) – Tasted 17/02/2021 –
Domaine des Clos Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Crots 2020
This is a special 1er cru located in the steep limestone soils near Chateau Gris. It has a lovely floral nose, and is very vivid and elegant. The shallow soil gives this a beautiful mineral note; it is a special wine, in a good sense. Please note that Les Crots contains both 1er cru and village areas.
(Drink from 2029) – Fine – (90p) – Tasted 17/02/2021
Domaine des Clos Beaune Les Longes Blanc 2020
I do adore a good white Beaune, so this Les Longes, located above Champs Pimont at the top of the Beaune slope, fits the bill Quite rich and weighty for a village, this is really juicy and a vin de soif (if such a term is applicable to a white Beaune). Very nice, with exotic apricot and the grace of the 2020s with their current youthful expression. Enjoyable.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 17/02/20 –