Visit to Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia – First Tasting of the 2023s from Cask

Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia is one of the estates that I follow closely, hence they are amongst the first visits in my initial round of 2023 vintage assessments. I did the harvest (or part of it anyway) at Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia in 2021, 2022, and 2023, and therefore was able to follow the vinification closely.

Disclaimer: I am a mere mortal

The reasons I worked the harvest at Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia was because I wanted to observe and understand the baie-par-baie vinification practiced here (among other domaines).

The experience gave me insights into both the harvest and vinification processes. Please remember, I’m merely a ‘Hog, and not an all-knowing expert like some others populating parts of the wine business. So yes: I did the harvest at Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia, and if you feel this disqualifies me from objectively appraising the wines, then ignore the rest of this article. Biased? Perhaps. But taste the wines for yourself.

I have written in depth about Domaine Garcia before: see the 2020 article here, and the 2019 article here.

Explaining baie-par-baie

Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia is an exciting estate, as readers of this column know. It employs the baie-par-baie technique (hand-destemming a third of the harvest) to make wines with unique floral qualities.

It seems that hand-destemming – baie-par-baie and other variants – is becoming increasingly popular in Burgundy.

Pierre-Olivier Garcia removes approximately a third of the berries from the stems by hand, grape-by-grape, with a pair of scissors to ensure whole, undamaged grapes for vinification. The result is the most delicate and beautiful berry caviar. It is also very time-consuming.

The one-third share of baie-par-baie is currently fixed, as Pierre-Olivier considers this optimal. However, it is possible to use less or more baie-par-baie if the vinification is adjusted accordingly, according to Garcia.

The baie-par-baie grapes are vinified with whole-cluster bunches and machine-destemmed berries. They are arranged in layers in the tank: whole clusters on the bottom, then baie-par-baie, and on top machine-destemmed berries. The layers are separated by CO2 to ensure the intracellular maceration starts in the two bottom layers.

The berries are kept cool until fermentation starts, and there is a short, cold, pre-fermentation in the tank, normally four days or so.

While the baie-par-baie method is unusual and time-consuming, the resulting wines are of indisputably exciting quality.

In my opinion, this technique encourages more highly perfumed aromas that are greatly detailed, with precise notes of roses and other floral components, giving a special, delicate complexity to these wines.

I have followed this method for some time, and its results are stunning, with tremendous phenolic complexity and variation, as the floral expression combines with the terroir and the vintage.

Beauty is on the palate of the beholder, though; I find these wines interesting and hedonistically expressive, but that’s me.

The 2023s

I have already described the 2023 vintage in a separate article – see the first vintage report here. This article will focus on the domaine’s ’23 wines.

The vintage was abundant, and in general, Pierre-Olivier did well controlling yields and quality. This was not easy as concerns green harvesting, which can be essential to quality.

Yields were high in 2023, and while concentration was good, there is some variation. But in general, there is a lovely effortlessness to the wines. They do not have the same uniform ripeness as the 2022s, nor their “sweet” intensity.

The expression of the baie-par-baie phenolics is variable in 2023, from pink dog roses (Rosa Canina), to more velvety red roses in some wines. In general, the expression of the floral notes is somewhat cooler in 2023, hence fewer red roses.

The variation of the floral components is also notable, and indicates uneven phenolic ripeness, which was lower in ’23, giving a more vivid, energetic side to the vintage – but also less ripeness.

Which do I prefer, 2022 or 2023? Let’s see, wine by wine.

A first look at the reds

Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Brouilly La Folie 2023

Showing vivid and fresh, this version is more Beaujolais-like than the ripe, intense 2022. What can I say? I adore the strawberries and red fruits in the ’23.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good (87p) –

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Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Bourgogne Les Maladieres 2023

This is, as readers of this site know, one of the rarest, most exotic red Bourgognes; not even a full barrel is made! This is a lovely wine, but it’s currently not living up to the 2022. Pinot droit and 2022 seemed to work very well together, while the green harvest (getting the yield correct) was perhaps a challenge in 2023. Bottom line: the pink flowers and pink roses are coolish, perhaps with a bit of cinnamon.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2023

The Hautes Côtes de Nuits is showing very well indeed. Its fresh flowers are quite delicate, with some cooler floral notes. Encouraging that the baie-par-baie works so well even in the Hautes Cotes.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Côte de Nuits Village 2023

This is really floral, perfumed with pink roses and lovely red and darker fruit. The disgustingly good nose (yes, this is what my notes say) is intense. What a treat at the moment. I love it.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Marsannay 2023

Again, pink roses, and quite forward for a Marsannay. This is a bit reduced, but lively and vivid for the appellation. The nose is exquisite, and this is perhaps the best Marsannay from Garcia so far.

(Drink from 2029) – Fine (91p) –

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Domaine Pierre-Olivier Garcia Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Grandes Vignes 2023

This cuvee comes from Premeaux, right next to Comte Liger-Belair’s 1er-cru holding – i.e. below the national road. It is turning out to be one of my favourites from Garcia, and in 2023, there are pink roses and sweet peonies that produce a lovely grandeur for this village. Vivid and quite expressive, it shows fine floral complexity.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (90p) –

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