Visit to Domaine Georges Glantenay – Tasting the 2021s

Domaine Georges Glantenay is a sister-and-brother venture, with Sarah in charge of sales and Guillaume overseeing viticulture and winemaking. It is always a pleasure to visit here, as the wines have gone from strength to strength since I started tasting them in depth with the 2017 vintage.

Domaine Georges Glantenay is one of the top domaines in Volnay, on a level with the very best estates there thanks to its delightfully energetic and seductive wines.

The 2021s: nailed

The 2019s, the 2020s, and the 2021s have all been vivid and lively, and as the years pass, Guillaume gets better and better at his job. He has enough experience now that he feels confident in experimenting a bit.

The wines are more than enjoyable, and make no mistake: They strike a fine, delightful balance between complexity and drinkability.

The 2019s are more flamboyant and exuberant than the ’20s, with their more classical stance. It was still quite a hot vintage in ’20, but an early harvest ensured a beautiful balance in the Georges Glantenay wines.

The 2021s, on the other hand, are cooler, more classic Burgundies, with the acidity more prominent and the fruit less intense and dense (something we had begun to get used to with global warming).

In fact, 2021 was a return to the cooler-year character that I like so much. But let’s be realistic: Dreaming of Burgundy in the years before global warming will not bring old-school Burgundies back. Yet with the skills of great winemakers like Guillaume, we still occasionally get to experience lovely wines made under even the hotter conditions.

And so, to the cellar!

Domaine Georges Glantenay Bourgogne Rouge Maison Dieu 2021

The Bourgogne Rouge Maison Dieu is from old vines – 45-80 years – which explains its lovely complexity. Georges Glantenay has 1.85 hectares of this, normally yielding 10,000-15,000 bottles. The lieux-dits are Les Grandes Terres, Les Monpoulain, Les Vèves, Les Petits Prés, Les Saussots, Les Lameroses and Les Taupes Maison Dieu. Vinified with seven days of cold soak and 100% destemmed grapes, this is a forward, fruity wine. The vinification is done without sulphur, and the result is a pure, lively wine with an enjoyable, fruity mid-palate. The 2021 is on the leaner side than the three previous years, and while it’s enjoyable pinot, it is somewhat light-footed.

(Drink from 2023) – Good – (86p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay 2021

The Volnay village is an assembly of several plots: Les Aussy, Les Petits Gamets, La Gigotte, Les Buttes, Robardelles, Les Grands Poisots, En Echards, and Les Combes are included. Glantenay produces two Volnay village cuvées: this, and a vieilles vignes – and there is quite a difference. The regular Volnay is showing well; it is aged in 25% new oak and is lively, fresh, and delicate, coming from 30- to 60-year-old vines. A relatively light-footed generic Volnay, this is cool and classic, offering fine drinking. A vin de soif.

(Drink from 2025) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2021

The Volnay VV is bigger, deeper, and more playful. These are very old vines indeed (the oldest planted in 1932), and they give a sumptuous, rich, deep mid-palate even in a vintage like 2021. A real hedonistic treat, it is sensual and deep.

(Drink from 2028) – Very Good+ – (89-90p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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Domaine Georges Glantenay Pommard 2021

The Pommard village is from plots in Les Riottes, Le Poisot, and Les Combes Dessous. This is a lovely wine, but it can not match the Volnay VV. While classic and showing nice balance, the tannins are a bit rough around the edges. Classic, yet with modern drinkability.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret 2021

Volnay Ronceret is located low on the slope, below En Champans. This is a charming wine, ethereal, and florally perfumed. It’s cool and sensually delightful, showing variations on raspberries (extremely charming). This is my favourite here in 2021 – not for the points, but for the love it puts on the table.

(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ – (92-93p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru Les Robardelles 2021

Volnay Robardelles is also low on the slope, just north of Santenots-Dessous. This is richer and more generous than the Ronceret, with a velvety texture. While lacking the delicacy and precision of the former, for pleasure this will do very well, thank you!

(Drink from 2029) – Fine+ – (92-93p) – Tasted 20/01/2023 –

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