I have used the last several weeks to explore different unknown (to me) estates, thanks to samples sent by agents, importers and winegrowers themselves.
This is surely a mixed bag – everything from everyday consumer wines to more attractive offerings from small and new domaines.
One of the most interesting was from Louis Dorry in Macon, who sent one wine for evaluation: the Macon Milly-Lamartine Les Collonges 2018.
Louis Dorry is a young winegrower in the Mâconnais, and he produces Mâcon Milly-Lamartine and Mâcon-Bussières, both white.
He has a small domaine of a bit more than 3 hectares, and farms his grapes as qualitatively as possible – i.e. ploughing and no use of weed killers. Vinification is done with indigenous yeasts, with fermentation generally lasting 4-6 months. Aging takes place for 11 months in barrel, followed by 11 months in tank.
Louis Dorry Macon Milly-Lamartine Les Collonges 2018
This is a serious, quite intense wine, but served chilled it’s not overly dense. It is, however, quite a mouthful, showing yellow fruits and honeysuckle, while being surprisingly vivid with fine acidity for the vintage. It perhaps lacks a bit of mid-palate energy (like many 2018s), but in reality this is showing very well indeed. When the temperature rises, acacia comes through, yet the freshness remains undiminished. Yes, it is rich and intense, but it makes me curious to taste a lighter vintage. It seems that 9C-10C as the serving temperature brings out fine freshness and Mâcon minerality. Zalto Universal stems were used, and are recommended for this wine. A lovely glass for the vintage.
(Drink from 2024) – Good++ – Tasted 29/12/2020 – 😄
This is the first time I have awarded a smiley rating. This is a cheerful wine, with plenty of oomph and joy. For a 2018, it’s remarkably fresh and energetic. The smiley indicates that I would drink this again – with pleasure and with a smile.