I have tasted Sylvain Dussort’s wines several times, and each time they left me with a strong impression; they are wines of quality, and with an attitude. I was therefore eager to visit the estate, and to meet Sylvain and his daughter Anne-Caroline.
The Dussort estate
Domaine Sylvain Dussort is slowly but surely preparing a generational switch, readying Anne-Caroline to take over from Sylvain, who has reigned since 1982 at the prominent Meursault address of 12 rue Charles Giraud – just opposite Coche-Dury.
Anne-Caroline has worked in the wine business on the sales side (amongst others) in New York, and therefore brings a fresh, international view to the estate.
The wines at Dussort are very good, made in a more traditional style (What, by the way, is traditional these days?). That said, I would not call them old school, as they have great character and depth, and a certain density.
The Dussort wines have a solid identity and substantial mid-palate stance. They are not flabby or excessively silky and rich, and they show a qualitative note of reduction that contributes to good balance.
The flagship is the Bourgogne blanc
Sylvain Dussort fought hard to have the appellation Bourgogne Côte d’Or established. He considers this special cuvee his estate’s flagship wine; it’s certainly the largest, with almost 10,000 bottles produced.
His attention to making great regional wine is clear, and tasting the Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a treat. It shows that not all Burgundies have to be packed with reduction in order to express fruit on a different level from other generic Burgundies.
The estate does produce other wines that objectively are greater: its Meursault Vieilles Vignes and Meursault Limozin both have more ageing potential, and are indeed wines of character.
The domaine produces four whites and two reds, and we tasted all of them from the magnificent 2020 vintage.
To the notes!
Domaine Sylvain Dussort Aligote 2020
The 2020 Aligote is a fresh, generous wine with quite a vivid kick from the acidity and vintage density. I find plenty of Meursault minerality here, with a lovely saline note. It’s weighty, with good energy, and is more classic and balanced than the 2019.
(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 12/07/2022
Domaine Sylvain Dussort Bourgogne Cuvée des Ormes 2020
This is the domaine’s flagship wine, following Sylvain Dussort’s advocacy for the Bourgogne Côte d’Or appellation, and when you taste this cuvée you understand why it was created. The wine comes from plots in En l’Ormeau, Les Pellans, Les Malpoiriers, and Les Dressolles. It’s harvested by hand, and aged for 12 months on its lees in barrels (60%) and enamelled vats (40%). This is a magnificent wine, with beautiful balance, great density and generosity, and a clear mineral greeting from the Meursault appellation. I like the style, the classic notes, and the gourmand feeling; this calls for lobster, or even turbot. Dussort uses Diam 10 to close the 10,000 bottles produced. It is a true classic; serve it well chilled.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ – (89-90p) – Tasted 12/07/2022 –
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