Maison Géraldine Louise – an amphorae to remember

There are many small and exciting estates in Burgundy, and sometimes, I am thrown head over heels into tastings in these small estates.

It’s fine, I rather enjoy this, but when I come back to NSG, I often remember all the things I should have asked about and documented.

In this case, I did not … embarrassing really – but some of the wines tasted at this visit are really worth looking for.

The Mâcon estate that was previously unknown to me is Maison Geraldine Louise, created by the charming and very competent Géraldine Lochet.

Background … the wine jars

I have slowly but surely discovered a passion for amphorae wines … full amphorae or a part of the elevage made in amphorae.

This is complex, as there are a lot of open questions when we talk about the use of amphorae, but again, the choice of oak (tonnelier and chauffe) can be equally complex – but people often tend to forget the complexity.

It is complex, as there are a lot of open questions when we talk about amphorae … material, size and shapes.

Then, there are the different types of amphorae like vessels … a traditional amphorae like the Italian Tava amphorae made from clay. Then, we have different concrete amphorae. Again, there can be a variation between manufacturers.

Finally, we have the ceramic vessels. Ceramic amphorae are made from ceramics which normally allow for a smaller permeability (flow of oxygen via the vessel), i.e., less oxidation is allowed via a ceramique Clayver than a traditional Teva amphora. Complex … Oh, yes.

The ceramic vessels and the different classic clay-based amphoraes give different results, and while a lot is trying to use the different formats, the overall knowledge is limited. The individual growers get some new knowledge all the time, and some share this with other growers, but it is a long and complex process.

---

To Maison Géraldine Louise

Géraldine Lochet is a small producer located in Rosey near Givrey in Côte Challonaise. Focus has so far been on making traditional wines in barrels, but lately, she has been experimenting with the ceramic Clayver vessels (why the f… do I always misspell Clayver).

Géraldine has a relatively extensive background and lots of experience. She has been at Château Cary Potet à Buxy and Domaine Colin in Chassagne-Montrachet for a number of years as maître de chai. The domaine might be small, but there is a lot of knowledge packed in Géraldine Lochet … and the curiosity to try something new.

I tasted the 2024 wines of Géraldine … I have my favourites, but lets face it, my focus was on the Clayver cuvée as this really is a big area of interest.

The Givry Champ Pourot 2024 gives tremendously pure and delicate flavours … a delightful wine.

The Saint-Romain La Périère 2024 is very Saint Romain … delicate and intense with a cool style. Saint-Romain can be very vivid when they want to play.

The Cousu Main Bourgogne Aligoté is also a true treat with a zen-like expression and easily combined with the lovely acidity of the 2024 vintage. Not quite ceramic level, but a truly elegant and refined Aligoté. Obvious talent here … this balance and effortlessness in an Aligoté is sort of mind-boggling.

I hope I will have a chance to revisit …

The Ceramic project

Géraldine has also made some ceramic wines that I find very interesting.

---

Bourgogne Chardonnay Dentelle de Bourgogne 2024

The Bourgogne Chardonnay Dentelle de Bourgogne 2024 is a special, zen-like balance. It is made 1/3 on oak barrels and 2/3 on Clayver, giving it a lovely feel. When we are talking, Clayver’s structure is perceived as more holistic and less edgy and amplified. Has an airy feel and the harmony gracing the food that the wine is served with. The grapes come from a parcel near Rosey on Mont Avril … altitude 420m. Domaine Géradine Lucie estate is located in Rosey.

The 1/3 oak was François Frères … and this gives a lovely balance. My feeling is less oxidation than the Retour de la Terre, which would be natural, as the Tava amphorae have a higher permeability.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89p) –

---

As a reference Domaine Guillemot-Michel – Retour de la Terre

I have tasted a gorgeous amphora wine from Domaine Guillemot-Michel, and this has made me search for wines with similar qualities.

The special cuvée Retour de la Terre was created in 2017, with grapes selected from a small pocket of clay in the “Champ-Rond” plot.

Domaine Guillemot-Michel – Retour de la Terre 2022

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.