Mark Haisma’s winery is in a new business area in Gilly-les-Citeaux, the same area where one finds Domaine Laurent Ponsot. This says something, as Mark is not the mingling type, fraternizing with the Burgundy elite. Mark’s strong Australian influence makes him informal and straightforward, although one should not mistake this for hasty or superficial. Above all, a good sense of humor does make my day much better.
Listen to what he says, and you can learn a whole lot more from a visit chez Haisma than at many more prominent estates in the region.
I meet all kinds of winegrowers, and all works well for me, if the wines are good. And the Haisma line-up is tremendous: His 2020s compare favourably with many producers of local origins.
To be direct, Mark Haisma’s wines spoke to me. Not all of them of course – they are not all works of art. But the best is quite a lot more “Burgundy” than many of the wines produced in nearby villages.
Let’s go to Gilly!
The 2020 reds from Mark Haisma
The qualities of Haisma’s reds really impressed me, as I discovered some attributes in several of the wines that are rarely found: a deep, mineral expression, and beautiful integration of the terroirs. The wines are made with a gentle hand, leaving ample room to express both fruit and terroir. They are vins d’émotion, easy-going and effortless, showing detail almost naturally. It was a gratifying journey through the red terroirs.
To the notes!
Mark Haisma “A Bogan in Bogandy” Passetoutgrain 2020
The 2020 “A Bogan In Bogandy” Passetoutgrain is a genuine vin de soif at an affordable price. Five thousand bottles were made, from pinot and 30%-40% gamay. It’s juicy, fresh, and luckily not dense; rather elegant, and quite likable.
(Drink from 2022) – Good – Tasted 1/07/2022 –
Mark Haisma Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020
Mark made around 3,000 bottles of the ’20 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, and it’s an elegant wine, more detailed and delicate. A vin de soif, this has quite a refined note, and a nice, organic feel.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ – Tasted 1/07/2022
Mark Haisma Volnay La Cave 2020
The Volnay La Cave is a brilliant village wine, and is very expressive. Juicy raspberries on the nose are intensely vivid, yet it’s surprisingly delicate, with gorgeous energy and liveliness. An outstanding Volnay village, it recalls memories of some of Thomas Bouley’s wines from this fine vineyard.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good+ (90p) – Tasted 1/07/2022 –
Mark Haisma Fixin 2020
The Fixin is serious business in comparison with the starry Volnay. It has a deeper, denser, iron-y minerality, with notes of blood orange and raspberries. This has intense fruit, and is slightly on the dense side.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 1/07/2022
Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 2020
From a mixed bag of village vineyards in Gevrey – La Justice and Billard – this negoce cuvee includes 50% whole clusters. It has a fine, organic touch, and is intense, but not dense. This shows deep fruit and lovely acidity.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 1/07/2022 –
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