The story continues of the 2019 Bichot endeavour with some delightful whites – wines that surprised me with their energy and balance.
The notes on Bichot’s Domaine du Clos Frantin are here, along with a bit more background on the tasting.
Enough talk; to the notes!
Tasting notes for Domaine du Chateau Gris 2019
Chateau Gris is a thought-provoking estate in Nuits-Saint-Georges, acquired by Bichot in 1978. The Chateau Gris monopole is part of the climat Les Crots, and the estate itself is located in this vineyard. It is steep and planted in terraces up towards the chateau, and from the top of the vineyard (classified as village), Bichot produces a worthy white NSG.
I can almost see the Chateau Gris vineyard and chateau from my desk. It’s a special and beautiful place – so let’s start there.
Domaine du Chateau Gris Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Terrasses Blanc 2019
The Nuits Terrasses Blanc is a delightful wine. It’s made from the village part of Les Crots, planted in terraces near the Chateau Gris estate. The soil is limestone, which gives the wine a unique style vis a vis other whites from Nuits-Saint-Georges. It oozes limestone and is beautifully structured, with a lovely, fine character one can find in good northern whites. It has a generous bouquet, with citrus-infused stones and fresh pear, and is nicely balanced, with fine energy. The wine is quite effortless, with a lovely, airy lightness.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 cask sample
The Whites of Pavillon and Domaine Adélie
The Cote de Beaune wines from Albert Bichot are made at Domaine du Pavillon in Pommard. They make both reds and whites there (as at Domaine du Clos Frantin) and they make both estate and top-end negociant wines from the surrounding appellations.
Here are some of the whites from Pavillon that impressed me – quite a lot.
Domaine du Pavillon Bourgogne Cote d’Or Chardonnnay 2019
The 2019 Bourgogne blanc is a true delight, from the Meursault area. This is a complete package, and with 6000 bottles made, all the more impressive. It shows perfect ripeness, lovely energy, and just a hint of Meursault magic. The restrained new oak (20%) is sufficient, and brings lovely balance to this slightly generous wine. Good complexity for the level.
(Drink from 2021) – Good (87-88p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask –
Domaine Adélie Mercurey Les Champs-Michaux 2019
The Mercurey Les Champs-Michaux 2019 is between a rock and a hard place with its generosity. Forgetting the delightful Bourgogne blanc does help somewhat, but the slightly high alcohol in the Mercurey creates a wine with a different purpose and expression. The slightly reductive note helps, yet I have difficulty seeing why I should buy this and not the (presumably) less expensive Bourgogne blanc.
(Drink from 2021) – Good (87p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask
Domaine du Pavillon Meursault 2019
The Meursault is rich and velvety, with the oak a bit more in the foreground. As with many of the 2019s, it’s slightly on the hot side, but I still find lovely balance in the wine. There’s a nice reductive note that adds the needed freshness.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask
Domaine du Pavillon Meursault Charmes 2019
The Meursault Charmes is a big step up; it’s a linear, intense version mostly from the top part of the vineyard. This has lovely chalkiness, and the 25-30% new oak brings good balance to its slightly hot character. It’s from three plots, with the main part coming from the top end of Charmes – and this shows. There’s an airy light-footedness that I like. Not the biggest Charmes, but elegant.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Fine (93p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask –
Domaine du Pavillon Beaune Clos des Mouches 2019
I have a soft spot for white Beaune, and especially that from the king (or is it queen?) of Beaune’s white terroirs – the Clos des Mouches. This is a serious wine: white, yet darkly flavoured with a pleasing rusticity not found in the Meursault Charmes. This gives the wine wider culinary possibilities – it can carry even big fish dishes (Did someone mention turbot in puff pastry with lobster bisque?). Bichot has a hectare of this beauty.
(Drink from 2029) – Fine+ (92-93p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask
Domaine du Pavillon Corton-Charlemagne 2019
The Corton-Charlemagne is from the climat Les Languettes, almost south-facing, and very well exposed – one could say too well exposed in a hot year like 2019. Yet I find good freshness and balance in this wine. It has some exotic notes – peach and pear – and a mineral infused mid-palate which shows nice citrus aromas. This is very well made, and its medium body will provide excellent drinking for at least 10-15 years.
(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine (93p) – Tasted 15/03/2021 from cask