In March I visited Domaine Berthaut to taste the 2013 – the first vintage of Amélie Berthaut … the very talented new winemaker of this family estate.
While Amélie is one of the rising stars of Burgundy … I think its important to acknowledge where at least some of the talent and support is coming from – her father Denis Berthaut.
The last vintage made by Denis Berthaut was 2012 – and while he is now supporting Amélie – these 2012s reprecent the end of his era of winemaking … and he certainly deserves acclaim for his 2012 efforts.
The pure and classic style of Fixin
Denis Berthaut is a very skilled winemaker, and this really shows in his wines – they are pure, detailed and transparent, with a lovely presentation of the terroir. The style is classic in the best way, and has a dignified touch elevating the style to a quite refined level.
The style does however need time to unfold … i.e. cellaring, as these are not – we aim to please wines … this is the real deal … and its Fixin.
The 2012s are however somewhat different, as this is a vintage with quite abundant fruit, with a build in softness, that really suits the style of Denis Berthaut. Some of the 2012s from Berthaut were somewhat closed last year … but are now re-gaining transparency and complexity.
I had the pleasure of tasting af few of these in Copenhagen last month … and here are the provisional notes.
Tasting notes – Domaine Berthaut 2012
The wines were tasted on August 28th 2015 … in a rather crowded and hot place … a lovely cheerful crowd – but hardly the place to contemplate long and detailed notes – so bear with me.
Domaine Berthaut – Fixin 2012
The generic Fixin is showing quite beautifully. In the nose dark cherries – red fruits – transparent and pure with a nice discrete earthy touch of minerality. On the palate relatively tight but with a lovel juicy fruit … transparent with a lovely nerve. A delightful glass of pinot …
Domaine Berthaut – Fixin les Crais 2012
The Fixin les Crais is somewhat more closed – slightly reductive on the nose, with red and blue berry fruit – variation of cherries and blueberries. On the palate more concentration than the generic village Fixin – a bigger wine – but not offering much currently. A classic Fixin – that needs time to unfold.
Domaine Berthaut – Fixin Les Clos 2012
The Les Clos 2012 is showing very well offering a quite refined experience. In the nose fine predominantly red fruit … variation of cherries and sweeter red fruits .. fine and quite delicate minerality. On the palate quite forward and juicy – good concentration – lovely transparency and balance. A lovely wine – pure and almost silky on the palate … but focused by the fine terroir – a personal favorite among these wines. The old vines are really showing here …
Domaine Berthaut, Fixin En Combe de Roy 2012
En Combe de Roy is a more serious wine … darker and more dense. In the nose more dark fruits – additional depth in the fruit – with a perhaps more classic Fixin expression. On the palate deep and quite dark fruit – quite tightly wound for the vintage – but s still showing quite forward and approchable. Need time to unfold … a nice classic Fixin with a lovely expression of terroir.
Domaine Berthaut, Fixin Les Arvelats 2012
I quite big step up in weight, concentration and complexity. The nose offer lovely deep red and darkberry fruit – fine spicy note – and a solid expression of terroir. It’s much more open than when I tasted it in Marc 2015 – and is now showing a much more expressive side – with an almost perfumed bouquet. On the palate lovely fruit and concentration – yet its lightfooted and terroir driven. Its a lovely refined Fixin – very transparent and elegant at this stage considering the vintage. A lovely wine in the making .. has turned out beautifully after a very closed period after bottling.