One of the hidden gems of Chambolle-Musigny is the Chambolle Les Cras from Domaine Ghislaine Barhod.
The Les Cras vineyard is mainly known for the fine Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras from Domaine Georges Roumier, and that is indeed a lovely wine, but the Les Cras from Domaine Ghislaine Barthod is perhaps even more or at least equally interesting – and here is why.
Lets go to Chambolle …
Chambolle-Musigny Aux Cras or Les Cras ….
Chambolle Musigny Les Cras is located just north of the village of Chambolle – in fact the vineyard begins on the plateau just across the road from the small restaurant called Le Chambolle Musigny – see map below.
There is however also a village part of Cras located above the 1er cru section – and to make things even more complex this is sometimes bottled as a Chambolle village lieu-dit – under the name Les Cras (Domaine Patrice Rion is producing a lieu-dit village from this climat).
The two largest owners are Domaine George Roumier and Domaine Ghislaine Barthod – the latter is located in the southern part of the vineyard just adjacent to the village and the road almost in front of the small restaurant Le Chambolle Musigny.
The Ghislaine Barthod plot on Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras
The Ghislaine Barthod plot is 0.8655 ha and can be seen on the map below. This end of the vineyard is slightly exposed towards south.
Seen from the road there is a quite large stone wall directly below the plot of Ghislaine-Barthod – see photo below.
The soil is more shallow in the southern end of Les Cras, and the Ghislaine Bathod wine seems more floral and filigree than the more robust and stony Les Cras from Roumier – from a large plot the other end of the vineyard.
The soil shifts in the very southern end of Les Cras according to the maps made by Françoise Vannier-Petit – and this and the more shallow top soil could well explain the vibrant and floral feel of the Les Cras from Ghislaine Barthod – see map below.
The soil in the northern part of Les Cras is Calcaire Argileux (limestone clay) just as the middle part of Les Fuées but in the southern end the bottom part is Marnes a Ostrea Acuminata (white marl with fossilised oysters) the same type of soil found in the upper part of Bonnes Mares – the so called white soil section of this vineyard.
Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras – the wine
My reference point here is the 2015 vintage – that produced a quite magnificent Cras from Ghislaine Barthod. This could be a result of the location of the plot just near the valley just above the village of Chambolle, as the breeze possibly could have cooled the vineyard and contributed to the vibrant energy and freshness in this wine.
The nose is bursting with red and dark fruits – pomegranate, red and dark cherries, hint of strawberries – and a tremendous filigree stony minerality. On the palate very vibrant and juicy – very impressive transparency and purity. A truly magnificent Chambolle 1er cru .. what a treat. Will most likely require quite some time in the cellar to unfold in all it’s beauty and charm. Very Fine+ (94 – 95p) perhaps a bit excessive with the rating – but such a delightful wine.
The Ghislaine Bartod 2015 has – to me – a more hedonistic and sensual side than the Les Cras normally has from Domaine Georges Roumier, as the minerality seem more filigree and delicate in the Ghislaine Barthod effort. The Roumier Les Cras require more time to unfold and can seem a bit edgy in it’s youth with it’s quite prominent and rather robust stony minerality. A mature Les Cras from Roumier is a magnificent treat – but it requires close to 20 years to unfold – if not more.
It’s hard to say that one is better than the other – but I do adore the Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras … both will do however.[/is_paid] You need to login as premium subscriber to see the rest of this article. If you are not a premium subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up for a Premium subscription.