I have recently tasted quite a few 2013 red Burgundies, and I must say they have a delightful, vivid appeal.
The 2013s are surely not from the greatest of vintages. But they have some singular qualities that at best are uniquely fresh red Burgundies, with a visible and even flamboyant expression of their terroirs.
They do have a certain drama (like the 2008 whites) displaying the mineral side of the wines with great charm and vivacity.
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux 2013 vs 2012
I have within the last two months tasted both the 2012 and 2013 Echezeaux from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, underscoring the differences between these two vintages.
The 2013 is vivid, mineral and terroir-driven, showing the most exciting side of the Echezeaux terroir. It is expressive and fresh, yet without the warm fruit seen in the hotter and perhaps bigger vintages harvested lately. It’s a very lively wine with plenty of character – a vin d`émotion for me.
The 2012 is still backward and perhaps somewhat underwhelming at the moment, with denser fruit and more prominent oak. I’m sure it will unfold over the next five years or so, but I somehow doubt that it will develop the same vivid expression of terroir as the emotional 2013.
Somehow, vintages balancing on the edge of ripeness express terroir in a lively and dramatic way. Today I certainly prefer the 2013 … it really thrills my emotions.
Looking at the development of the Domaine du Liger-Belair 2009s does, however, raise an exception to my statement above. The ’09s were quite backward for many years, but two years ago they unfolded beautifully, with La Romanée now rivaling the magnificent 2010 (OK, not quite). But it certainly deserves a place among the top vintages.
Other 2013 delights
I have tasted some other 2013s that show the same vivid expression of terroir as the Liger-Belair Echezeaux.
Domaine Bizot has made some tremendous village Vosne-Romanée wines that have tremendously expressed terroir, as if the wine wants to throw pebbles at you to thrill your senses. Very expressive, very juicy and mouthwatering, and with a sensational expression of Vosne and the estate style.
Try some of the “lesser” 2013s; they may rock your world!