Visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – Tasting the 2022s

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is an estate dedicated to quality and coherence, meaning lovers of the wines have a safe haven style-wise when they acquire these famous, fabulous bottles.

This is not a place for ground-breaking or earth-bending changes. It is, however, an estate that makes its changes with discretion, with the goal of respecting its consumers of many years.

This is the now responsibility of Perrine Fenal, who has moved into the place of the late Henry-Frédéric Roch; and Bertrand de Villaine, who has taken over from his uncle Aubert.

Changes

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a unique estate, the apotheosis of Vosne-Romanée and top-end Burgundy. As with all great estates, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti takes the preferences of its clients very seriously, and stylistic changes are thought through carefully. This is a complex process at an estate with as long a history as DRC.

Substantial changes are nevertheless happening. Alexandre Bernier has taken over from Bernard Noblet, and one feels fresh new winds are sweeping gently through Vosne-Romanée.

Traditions certainly are upheld, but changes nonetheless happen, now as before. No one makes great wines year after year without adapting their viticulture and vinification to climate change and other substantial challenges.

Respect for collectors

The style of DRC’s wines was in the hands of the Noblet family for decades, first under Andre Noblet from 1946-1985, and then with Bernard Noblet from 1986 until he retired in 2018. The style – and the conditions in which the wines are produced – no doubt evolved under the very long Noblet reign. While some parameters have been stable, important, but subtle, changes have appeared over time. And great wines have been made continually over the years and decades.

Now there’s a new winemaker at the wheel, although saying that, he’s been at DRC for many years. I tasted the 2011 vintage with Alexandre Bernier back in 2012, on my very first visit to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

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