I recently visited Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat for a tasting of the 2021s with Charles Van Canneyt, after a few missed tastings over the last couple of years. It was great to be back on track.
This is an estate in an historic phase of development. Firstly, as I have mentioned numerous times, Charles Van Canneyt has raised his game in recent years, in a calm and thorough manner.
Now, secondly, he has expanded the domaine with new holdings from the Mercier estate in Gevrey-Chambertin – an owner of both fine Gevrey vineyards and other spectacular plots.
Taking over vineyards that were rented out – as the Mercier vineyards were for decades – is a time-consuming process, and will take sustained effort. The vineyards are, however, great and exciting, and I expect the coming years to show some new and exciting wines in the Hudelot-Noellat line-up. Historic changes are occurring!
I have been here before and, as you know, have covered this estate’s history and earlier vintages in the previous articles below:
- Visit to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat, tasting the 2015s
- Visit to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat, tasting the 2016s
- Visit to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat, tasting the 2017s
- Visit to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat, tasting the 2018s
The 2021vintage at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat – tasted July 19
The 2021s offer few real surprises, aside from the fact that the frost issues in the spring of ’21 prevented the production of the Vosne-Romanèe Malconsorts. The quantity harvested was simply too small to bottle separately.
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Passe-Tout-Grains 2021
The Passe-Tout-Grains is showing the character of the vintage – freshness, energy, and lightness – relative to the massive 2020. It’s produced largely from whole-cluster grapes – unusual for the Hudelot-Noëllat line-up. The PTG, however, works very well in the 2021 context, producing a classic vin de soif.
(Drink from 2023) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 19/07/2022 –
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is more classically 2021; i.e., quite light-footed, but vivid and lively. The whole-cluster inclusion in the Passe-Tout-Grains worked very well, and while the Bourgogne is good, I sort of miss the volume a bit of whole bunch would have brought to the wine. Delicate and quite light; further elevage will should increase the density.
(Drink from 2023) – Good – (86p) – Tasted 19/07/2022
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 2021
The Chambolle village is also on the delicate and refined side. I assume it will add weight, but expect it will remain elegant. This is quite a contrast to the previous warm vintages, but honestly is a welcome change from the global-warming tendencies. Lovely juice.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 19/07/2022 –
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 2021
The Vosne and Chambolle villages are equally built and evenly matched. The lightness of the fruit is a treat, and so is the energy. Rather, it’s a treat for the classically minded collector, not for the points hoarder.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 19/07/2022 –
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots 2021
A rare Vougeot 1er cru from the northern end of the appellation, this is sweet, delicate, and more forward than the two previous villages. This is the nature of Vougeot 1er cru, and so is also an ideal choice for an early-drinking gala.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 19/07/2022 –
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