Back at Domaine Jean Chartron – one of the old, prominent estates in Puligny-Montrachet – to taste the 2018s from cask with Jean-Michel Chartron.
Domaine Jean Chartron – revealing the potential in 2018
Domaine Jean Chartron has a long historical background, having been established in 1859, with a unique portfolio of vineyards that include three famous clos: Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle, Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Caillerets and Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers.
The estate has, after a problematic period in the 1980s and early 1990s, entered a more stable period under the leadership of Jean-Michel Chartron, and this has improved quality tremendously over the last few years.
The 2017s tasted last summer were very good – and now time has come to taste the relatively ripe and generous 2018s.
The question is, however: How ripe and opulent are the 2018s? Or has the Charton team managed to tame the beast and find a delicate balance with the 2018s?
The answer is quite clear: The Chartron 2018s are mostly focused, fresh and energetic, without the hot tendencies found in some 2018s. I find that the hot conditions had a greater impact on the domaine’s lesser terroirs, while the bigger wines are more balanced.
It is clear that many producers are getting better and better at compensating for the hot climatic conditions, and at exploring the possibilities revealed by the changing weather conditions.
As always, some terroirs do better in hot weather, and these are (in my view) the wines to seek out in these hotter vintages. Furthermore, the 2018s could be a fine choice for gastronomy, as earlier drinking seems to be the name of the game with many of these hotter vintages.
The tasting notes – from May 21st 2019
To the tasting notes…
Domaine Jean Chartron Bourgogne “Clos de la Combe Blanc” 2018
While there is great interest in the Grand Crus, much can be learned from the lesser wines – including the ability to produce pure and detailed wines from the lower-end appellations. The Chartron Bourgogne Blanc is, like the 2017, quite a delightful wine – relatively fresh and forward with a nice mineral touch. This is somewhat warmer than the 2017, but that can be redressed with a colder serving temperature.
(Drink from 2020) – Good – (85 – 86p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin 2018
The Rully Montmorin is showing very well in 2018. The fruit is airy and effortless, offering fine freshness for the vintage. A bit on the generous side – not surprisingly – but nonetheless offering a nice crisp, vivid feel. Very nice minerality and fine balancing acidity.
(Drink from 2020) – Good+ – (86 – 87p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Pernand-Vergelesses 2018
An interesting terroir, as the cool rear of the Corton hill provides excellent conditions in a hot year such as 2018. Quite reductive, and with fine acidity for the vintage – classical Pernand with its grape-citrus notes. Displaying good structure and energy.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (86 – 87p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2018
This is a magnificent, mineral terroir on the upper side of the Montrachet hill. The minerality is stony and carries quite generous fruit. Always an interesting terroir, showing the most mineral side of Saint-Aubin, and a perfect match for this warm vintage.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 90p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Chassagne-Montrachet 2018
A classic Chassagne – pure, but also quite dense and expressive. This is a bit rich to my palate, but I do like the saline minerality. A good choise for gastronomy and foods that would benefit from an expressive and salty accompaniment.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ – (87 – 88p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Meursault 2018
Another generous 2018 – balanced and quite refined. Classic Meursault, with quite some weight and density. The expression is rich, but well balanced. It will provide fine short- and medium-term drinking.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet 2018
More edge than the Chassagne-Montrachet, but still slightly on the hot side. Classic Puligny feel with stony minerality and vivid freshness. Lovely drinkability.
(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (89 – 90p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 2018
The Puligny Les Folatieres 2018 is showing fine form – effortless and quite refined. The fruit is rich, sumptuous and generous, with some exotic notes. A fine expression of Puligny, and Folatieres is a delightful vineyard even in the more generous years.
(Drink from 2026) – Fine+ – (91 – 92p) – Tasted 21/05/2019
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Tasting Notes for this producer
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